“The True Vintage of Erzuine Thale” or the art of selecting teas

I was reading a compendium of novellas in the Dying Earth setting (a Jack Vance’s invention and for those of you who don’t know what I am speaking about, here is a link) when I came across one dealing with the finest wines on Earth, robbery and a sybaritic poet/sorcerer, “The True Vintage of Erzuine Thale” by Robert Silververg.

This Erzuine Thale had a really interesting ceremonial since each morning, he decided which wines he was going to drink, when and why. Some where there to lighten his mood, to allow him to sleep, to give him inspiration…

This made me wonder if I could do that or if anyone was doing something like this?

Since I don’t do that (I prefer to focus on the present with my emotions, needs and feelings when I choose my tea), I went on thinking about how I select the teas I buy (I know I have been dealing with this topic on some occasions on Teatrade but I would like to elaborate a little more).

When it comes to this, there are some basic schools: the “I only like a specific origin”, the “I only like teas that are blended with lemon” or the “let’s be adventurous and try to find something new.”

Obviously, you can add many more but I tried to gather all of them in a couple of big families.

If I had to define my style, I would go with the last one but with a slight twist, that allows me to be a bit idiosyncratic (since I first read it years ago, I always dreamt of using such a word). Some might say that I am a victim of our marketing times and I couldn’t agree less but I hope my selection process allows me to be something more than that.

But let’s get back on topic, me and my way of selecting the teas I buy.

First and foremost, the tea has to have an interesting name. Why a name? Because this is what attracts me first and foremost (hence the marketing victim).

What is an interesting name will you ask me. The answer is simple; one that allows me to travel in space and/or time, one that intrigues me. It changes from time to time as my interests are not always the same.

Then if it is a blend, I look at what is in it (mostly because I don’t like everything) and then smell it (although this is not mandatory as I don’t have a really good smell sense).

The ultimate step on my quest for a new tea is quite obvious: try it.

After getting to this point, you will tell me that this only works for blended teas and that for “pure” teas, I can’t and will probably never do it that way.

You are partly right (and then partly wrong) as I have certain preferences and although the names of the different gardens are sometimes an adventure by themselves, they can also be quite blunt.

However, let me tell you about three purchases I made during last year.

The first one (not in our normal spatio-temporal setting but in my memories) took place in Hamburg with our good friend @lahikmajoe. We went to a store I had never heard of that was full of Indian teas in bags and in bulk.

I came out of there with a bag of Darjeeling (obvious, no?) but from a garden named Bannockburn, which is a place in Scotland where the Scots fought and won against the English. Since I saw Braveheart, I had vivid pictures of this battle and of this place and upon seeing that name, my mind wandered and tried to create a link between the battle and the garden (for your information, I came up with one but I didn’t bother to look and check if I was right or wrong).

The second one (still in my memories) was bought in Norway.

I went to a nice shopping place (see there for my whole experience) and found this tea a China Moon Palace.

This name was so full of promises; imagine this what is a Moon Palace? And a Chinese one? Is it a mix of pagodas and the Forbidden City set on the Moon? Or something completely different? Again, I stopped there and didn’t fly to the Moon or play among the stars to see if I was right or wrong.

The power of this name was so strong and the smell was so nice that I bought a bag of it.

The last example was after these two events and took place on the Internet.

I was looking for an Oolong on the website of a company with good quality teas and I found one whose name would translate as Unique Leaf of the Phoenix (I am not sure if I translated right but I think you got the meaning).

I have a certain liking for odd and mythological beasts like the Phoenix (but also many others) and this is why I was attracted to this tea.

I don’t think it made me fly like a phoenix or that it will allow me to reborn from my ashes but after drinking it, I like its taste.

Now, you know a little more about how I proceed to select the teas I buy.

How do you do that? Am I the only one to have such a non standardised and personal selection process?

The grass is always greener on the other side of the fence

Sometimes, you have to go back to another place you know well to find “new” and interesting things that you had previously missed.

I once spoke of loose leaf tea sold in a supermarket (see here) but I saw during this week an interesting concept in a hypermarket (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypermarket): a true and dedicated teashop.

Not really dedicated since you can buy roasted coffee, spice and other specific sweets.

However, you can also buy almost 50 loose leaf teas (flavoured and not flavoured ; green, white or black) from a brand I could identify after making some research on Internet as being Compagnie Coloniale (http://www.compagnie-coloniale.com/).

This would be interesting per se but when looking at more information on this concept, I found an old article (from 2009) with an interview of the owner of this store with some pictures.

He was not asked why he had decided to do this but he said he wanted to make life easier for his customers.

Let’s look at it from a broader perspective.

Clermont-Ferrand is not from my point of view a really huge tea town and this hypermarket (since they are franchises, I cannot and won’t generalise) seems to focus on good quality yet affordable food products.

I think this is the key to this surprising marketing move: trying to broaden their market with this offering of tea but in a specialised and somehow different settings.

It is here that some of you might kill me for looking at this but I must say that they are still offering the usual bagged tea boxes but also a lot of loose leaf boxes of “classical” brands (you know those in the supermarkets near you).

What does this mean?

That with more space and a focus on the customers, even big stores (that are supposed to be non personal and so on and so on) can decide to upgrade the quality of their products, to increase the space available for their sales and to offer a complete range of products, increasing their attraction power and therefore their potential sales and profitability.

Can all the big stores go that way? I guess it depends on their strategy and how they perceive their market.

Can it work? If the market is not saturated by high quality teashops and if there is a demand (even if it is a small one) for such goods, I would say yes.

Does it work in making you buy more? It didn’t for me but only because they hadn’t what I was looking for and also because I know where to buy my teas (even if I am always ready for new things as long as they appeal to me). However for people discovering tea or without an access to good stores, the concept seems quite good and for me everything that allows more people to get access to quality teas is something worth noticing.

 

Bowing to traditions

Tradition is something that binds people together.

Sometimes it makes sense when you look at it from an historical perspective but some other times, it amazes those that look at it.

 031 - Preparations

As far as tea is concerned, traditions are part of it since it began and nothing is more traditional then a tea ceremony.

What is a tea ceremony? For this post, I will define it as a sort of tea ritual, as an unique way of making and drinking tea over and over again until everybody in a certain area knows that the xxx tea ceremony is performed that way (the precise area depending on a lot of factors such as being the motherland of tea or of tea in Europe or a country full of traditions that sounds exotics to us or ..).

Everyone knows about the Chinese tea ceremonies, the Japanese one, the English one (aka “5 o’clock tea”) , the Indian one, the Moroccan one, the Russian one and I am sure I am forgetting a lot of them.

031 - 2 cups

What I want to show you here is a little less known tea ceremony (although several of us Teatraders have talked about it), the East Frisian one.

East Frisian? Yes, a small part of Germany (for the East part) and of the Netherlands (for the West part) that is famous in Germany for being the place where people drink tea and nothing else (I already spoke once about a trip to this area in a previous blog post).

I didn’t go back to this area yet although I am sure that one day I will as I have many things that I didn’t see yet (both tea related and unrelated) but I travelled to Bremen, another “tea town” in Germany (for me Bremen and Hamburg are the southern borders of “tea drinking” Germany) and although I find that they usually make black tea too strong (but I think I know why), I decided to make a short video about the “right” way to perform a East Frisian tea ceremony.

After reading a bit more about it, I did at least one thing wrong: I poured too much tea on my candy sugar since the cup should not be full but the candy sugar should be covered by tea.

But as goes the saying, practice makes perfection.

I am also lucky that I was the one pouring tea into my cup as I didn’t get into any trouble by forgetting to let my spoon in my cup (as long as you don’t do this, it means you want more tea).

 031 - 2 cups once more

Now regarding the strength of black tea that sometimes borders on the bitter side, my explanation is threefold.

First and foremost, Germans are black coffee drinkers and the stronger, the better.

A second but more factual explanation is that in East Frisian, tea is drunk with liquid cream and sugar to sweeten it, which makes it easier to drink. So why bother for the strength of your tea?

My last explanation is that in Germany, tea pots remain heated while they are on your table, which even if the leaves are no longer there, changes the taste of what you are drinking.

Category: History, Market  8 Comments

Tea retail business and the Great Captains: an intro

L’Heure Gourmande by Adrian Scottow

Small tea business are like every other small business in the world. They face different challenges be it competitors, taxes, difficulties to find good suppliers… but they also have unique advantages in terms of their capacity to evolve, a peculiar relationship with their customers, the services they can provide.

This can be summarized in one sentence: small is beautiful but big is powerful.

One of the first decisions to make before launching a retail business (and tea is one of these) is what should be the focus or should I say the market for the future new company: should it try to provide everything (or nearly everything) or focus on a peculiar market (Japanese teas, home blended teas…)?

Some of you would object that this approach is quite academic and that usually people when starting a business don’t really know where they are heading or I would rather say, they don’t have a clear vision of what I just wrote about. They might have an unique expertise, some specific suppliers, a peculiar idea but for most of them (and I did write most of them), the idea is launching a business for different reasons.

This is exactly why I decided to write on this topic.

As usual, I won’t go too deeply in the topic as it is a mere introduction to something that I am sure has already been studied many times in different industries/fields.

What I want to do is provide a first look at these two alternatives and their pros and cons.

The “provide everything” approach as its name implies is a generalist approach which intents to give a little of something to everyone or to have every single need covered.

Pros

Covers every potential need

Focuses on a larger target market

Is more resilient to changes in trends

Cons

Higher competition from other companies

Differentiation from others is more difficult to achieve

Unable to answer the most precise needs of some customers

Table 1: Some pros and cons of a “provide everything” approach

The “focus, focus, focus” (the third focus being there to avoid any confusion with Hocus Pocus) approach is completely the opposite as it aims at being the best/only/… seller of a specific thing and be recognised for it.

Pros

Avoid direct competition with most people on the market

Recognised more easily for its expertise and unique approach

Higher value of the products sold or higher willingness of the customers to be more

Cons

Smaller market

More fragile when dealing with change in market trends

Linked with fewer suppliers

Table 2: Some pros and cons of a “focus, focus, focus” approach

I think most of the pros and cons can be understood quite easily so I will only comment a little more on two of them.

The first one is the trend parts.

If a company is surfing on the wave of the health benefit of green teas and selling only these teas ; it will have troubles to use what was its main selling argument when this trend “dies”.

And if it has nothing else to promote its products, it might be in dire straits.

On the other side, if it sells several products, it will have no problems surviving the different trends that rise and fall.

Obviously this simplification doesn’t work if you are talking about a trend that has been around for so long that it is something normal to most people in an area or in the world.

The second one is the higher value of the products sold or the willingness of the customers to pay more.

When a company is focusing on a product or a line of products, people recognise its expertise (I made the hypothesis that this company is knowledgeable about what it is doing) and are eager to pay more (probably a little more) for its products.

Why? Because deep inside us, we know that expertise has a price and that this price is worth it when expertise and quality go together. How do we know if they do? The first answer is by trying but we are also willing to believe more in the product quality when it is sold by someone knowledgeable in a topic.

Don’t tell me that it is the same as a salesman selling vacuum cleaners or encyclopedias as it is not. These people are sales experts not real vacuum cleaners experts. The good ones could sell you anything.

This is how this post ends but I am sure I missed something. So don’t hesitate to comment/discuss/correct me…

Napoléon on Saint Helena

What? I forgot something? The Great Captains?

No they didn’t all drink tea but they give a lot of thoughts to this being everywhere vs. focus problem and as always in military things, there was never a clear answer as it depended on a lot of things.

 

Any damn fool

«Any damn fool can put on a deal, but it takes genius, faith and perseverance to create a brand.»

David Ogilvy (1911-1999)

With such a quote to begin with, it is obvious that I can only speak of two things: deals or brands.

I hope your bets were on the second one as I will be talking about brand and the tea world.

According to the American Marketing Association Dictionary, brand is the “name, term, design, symbol, or any other feature that identifies one seller’s good or service as distinct from those of other sellers.”

But this is not all, a brand is also something else, it is a promise made to the buyer that he/she buys something special or solid or good or… and this is what we will be dealing with here.

A brand has :

  1. some unique attributes (a brand is known for being expensive, cheap, long lasting…) ,

  2. some unique advantages (this is the message behind each attribute),

  3. some values (a brand is the mirror of the company that created it),

  4. a culture (a Japanese brand is not at all like an American one),

  5. a personality (what would you associate this brand with?),

  6. some specific buyers (a brand is linked to a specific set of people that are expected to be suited for it).

As you might have guessed, this list comes from a marketing book I had as a student (Marketing Management by Kotler & Dubois, 9th Edition) but I just wrote it down there as a reminder of what a brand is.

Now you might ask me how does this relate to tea because we all drink teas and you don’t drink brands (although some of us only drink tea from one or several specific companies because they are who they are (isn’t this a brand thing?))

You can see it that way but I don’t think it is simple like that, otherwise why would some people only drink Darjeeling (you can write here Chinese, Taiwanese or any other tea producing country)? or teas from a specific estate? or only one kind of tea?

Let’s spend a little time on this example and don’t forget that all the things I write are my ideas not the truth.

What is a Darjeeling tea? According to the Tea Board of India and its Geographical Indication for this type of tea:

“the definition of Darjeeling Tea has been formulated to mean tea that:

  • is cultivated, grown or produced in the 87 tea gardens in the defined geographic areas and which have been registered with the Tea Board;

  • has been cultivated, grown or produced in one of the said 87 tea gardens;

  • has been processed and manufactured in a factory located in the defined geographic area; and

  • when tested by expert tea tasters, is determined to have the distinctive and naturally occurring organoleptic characteristics of taste, aroma and mouth feel, typical of tea cultivated, grown and produced in the region of Darjeeling, India.”

Source : Tea Board of India, http://teaboard.gov.in/inner1.asp?param_link_id=610&mem_link_name=About%20Darjeeling%20Tea

This definition is good but not enough to tell us if Darjeeling is a brand or not.

If we read it, we can summarize it into an unique set of attributes (quality, distinctive taste and aroma, grown in a specific place), advantages (you get a good deal for your money, you have a good tea, you can trace it to where it was grown) and values (the Champagne of tea).

To find the three other items, we have to think a little about the background of this tea.

Looking at its history and even its current organisation, it is easy to see that Darjeeling is a product of the British Empire. We now have the culture (a British Empire/British India one)

Based on all the previous lines, we can guess a personality (traditional, high quality, British), which helps us to define or to imagine what a specific customer for this tea might be (someone a little bit snobbish but still wanting a high quality product).

With this we managed to go through all the 6 items that makes something a brand and we can now say that Darjeeling is indeed a brand.

So next time you drink a tea, stop for a minute and see if your favourite tea country, type of tea or even estate would qualify as a brand.

And guess what? the answer could be yes.

In his lair

The Master in his lair
Was smelling the thin air
What he should do next
Was the big question.

He had done many
Nature, flavoured…
He had more than twenty
In his quest savoured.

How many dark nights
Did he look at the stars
To find a tea for tsars
Or for the not knights?

How many dark nights
With several teas
To fight the slight breezes,
Trap of so many nights?

Wondering if he had
One more time to go
To find the thing to add
The thing to make it glow.

He had met the Dragon,
More than one tea wagon
Also the Rising Sun
But all was overdone.

In need of new ideas
To create more teas
To bring a lot of joys
To all the girls and boys.

He looked at the walls
With all the tins and cans
All taken by his hands
In place he recalls.

The magic was in them
Also in the combo
Creating a true gem
To make people blow.

Having found his idea
He took a bit of this
Mixed it with that and this
In his quest to find tea.

Category: Writings  8 Comments

Hamburg or Free is the name of the game

Hamburg holds a special place in my heart not because it is a major hub for the world tea trade but today we will only focus on this aspect (sorry for those too curious about me).

I will first call everyone knowledgeable about this topic to tell me when I am wrong as it is a complex matter and information is few and people are not really ready to answer questions (or perhaps I didn’t ask the right persons or the right questions. Who knows?).

 

English tea box by Hannes Grobe (published under Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.5 Generic licence)


First, here is an extract of the website of the Port of Hamburg.

The Port of Hamburg has been the leading European trade centre for tea for many years. The major exporters are India, China, Sri Lanka and Indonesia.

Hamburg’s docks handle about 50 to 60 percent of the worldwide trade. Around 70 percent of the tea sold in Germany passes through Hamburg.

Imported teas are also blended and flavoured in Hamburg, before being exported worldwide. Great Britain and France are among the traditional destinations. About half the tea is shipped to the USA after being processed in Hamburg. The Russian market has also been gaining in importance recently.

Source: http://www.portofhamburg.com/en/content/tea

If you read the first paragraph, you might not understand why this happens since Germany is not known for its tea consumption (0.23 kg per capita and per year in 2009 according to the Food and Agriculture Organisation, which is even lower than the USA and far beyond the average yearly tea consumption per capita in the European Union (0.48 kg)).

However reading the second and third ones, you might begin to understand there is something as:

  1. the Port of Hamburg is not only the major European tea port but also the biggest one at the world level

  2. there seems to be a lot of further shipping (I won’t comment on the half of the tea shipped to the USA since I don’t have enough data for it).

Obviously, tea like other commodities is a trade where economies of scale is the name of the game for most companies (some won’t follow this strategy but most will).

Why? Because when you are big enough, you have more bargain power (look at articles on the Glencore-Xstrata merger) during the whole buying, transportation and processing chain.

This explains why once these companies have selected a hub, they are more than likely to put all their eggs in the same basket.

However this really quick analysis doesn’t help us to understand why Hamburg and why not Antwerpen or Rotterdam or Southampton.

Obviously, if a lot of companies involved in the tea business are there, it helps but it is not the only reason as companies move around, markets evolve…

So the explanation for the concentration lies not in the sole existence of what we could call a tea industry cluster (even if I think I might be exaggerating with the cluster thing).

In order to get a major tea port is adding to a tea industry cluster some historical background enough?

“Northern Germany as far as the Bavarian and Austrian Frontiers; Handbook for Travellers” by Karl Baedeker. Fifteenth Revised Edition. Leipzig, Karl Baedeker; New York, Charles Scribner’s Sons 1910. “Courtesy of the University of Texas Libraries, The University of Texas at Austin.”

 

The development of Hamburg in the colonial goods trade (coffee, tea, spice, cocoa, tobacco…) has its roots in the immigration of Protestant and Jews traders fleeing the religious conflicts of the 16th and 17th centuries.

These people came from different areas but also from the Netherlands and they brought with them their knowledge of these markets, their relations and their money.

Such was their success that in 1747, you could find in this town 246 coffee and tea traders and 267 in 1777.

The opening of the Chinese ports following the Opium War in 1842 and the end of England’s Navigation Acts in 1857 gave new opportunities to the tea business in Hamburg (If you want a more in depth analysis on Hamburg, its history and globalisation, you should read Capitalising on change in a globalising world by Wolfgang Michalski).

We now know that the tea industry has been concentrated in Hamburg for a long time.

But this is not enough as the following two examples will show.

Hamburg was the centre of Europe’s beer industry between the 14th and somewhere between the end of the 16th century and the middle of the 17th century. It was also the centre of Europe’s sugar industry between the end of the 17th century and the beginning of the 19th century.

Conditions and competitions changed and this two industries went away.

There is one final advantage provided to the tea industry that might explain it all. It is something that companies are always looking after, i.e. a financial incentive.

By financial incentive, I don’t mean subsidies but something more “subtle”, customs rights.

Yes you read it right, one of the main reasons behind Hamburg position is simple: part of it is a free port and it has been so since 1888 when the Free and Hanseatic City of Hamburg became part of the German Empire.

view from Poggenmühlenbrücke at Speicherstadt in Hamburg, Germany by Thomas Wolf, www.foto-tw.de.(published under Creative Commons-Lizenz Namensnennung-Weitergabe unter gleichen Bedingungen 3.0 Unportedc license)


This is a legal thing and the European Commission has approved it and published a list (http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=OJ:C:2002:050:0016:0018:EN:PDF).

The idea is simple: when you import goods in a free zone, you only pay import taxes when the goods leave this area.

When you apply this to a yearly stock, you understand why it is really interesting in financial terms.

To say it with other words, you imported 1,200 tons of tea at once, since you had a good price thanks to your bargaining power. You sell each month for 100 tons in the European Union. Thanks to the free zone status, you will only pay each month the import taxes for your monthly consumption.

You might then say that it explains the importance of the Port of Hamburg for the European Union but not for the rest of the world since everyone can do it in its own country and you would be right.

What I must add to this explanation is that when you re export our of the EU goods from a free zone after some allowed transformations (e.g. improving the live span of your product or putting it in a new packaging…), you don’t pay taxes at all.

Let’s use another example. You have bought 1,000 tons of tea and you imported them in the free zone part of the Port of Hamburg. You change their packaging to meet your customers needs and re export to the USA for 1,000 tons worth of tea in teabags. At the end of the year, you won’t pay any import or export taxes for the EU (not even on the raw teabags).

When you add all this, you can understand why Hamburg has such a dominant position in the tea world as the industry is there and the customs “easiness” too.

For any company with a focus on the economy of scale approach (remember I said most companies in the tea business are following this model whether they are in the bag tea business or in the loose leaves one), this is a winning situation.

Will this ever change?

YES because the status of part of Hamburg as a free zone will end in 2013.

Because of this, we might see some changes in the manufacturing, transportation and pricing strategies of the whole tea industry.

I told you in the title “free is the name of the game” but soon, it might become “we are living interesting times”.

Women drinking tea

Women drinking tea…

At first, I thought it would be easy to write about that topic and say out loud that the tea drinkers are not all old grannies drinking their tea in English china but I found out I was wrong.

Now, I will probably have lost half the people reading this and angered the remaining half but if you can bear with me for a few more lines, I will try to explain why I found that out.

So why?

Because after thinking a lot about it, after watching people at their places, at work, in tea salons,… I found out that there is no such things as a specific or more womanly way of drinking tea. It is more the result of a tea culture (the famous 5 o’clock tea, the Japanese tea ceremony, the Chinese way of doing it,…) and of personal preferences/experiences.

True, most of us like to take our time to drink our tea and to appreciate it but we can also prepare and drink it as quickly (and perhaps even quicker) as any coffee drinker.

Why don’t we do that more often?

This comes from the spirit behind tea drinking and in this way, drinking tea is more akin to wine drinking than to coffee drinking.

Would anyone think that wine drinkers that take their time are old grannies and grandpas? The answer is no. Why? Because in the French culture, it is the way, wine must be drunk and the French think that people drinking it like the Russians are supposed to drink vodka (one shot and all down) are sinning. To see that, just send a French to a Scandinavian party and look at his face when they will drink everything quicker than their shadow as if it was water.

But to come back to the initial idea, people who think that tea drinkers are old grannies drinking their 5 o’clock tea with their small cakes are all wrong

This is just one way of drinking tea and people might go from one to another depending what they think is right, on their mood, the people they are with, the places they are in, the teas they are drinking…

So whether or not you are in a hurry or have time, are alone or with friends, are travelling or at home, working or relaxing, you are more than welcome to make yourself a tea and to drink it.

I am sure you will find a way to enjoy it.

Bremen or going into an arena to look for a string

Bremen holds a special place in my heart, both for personal reasons (the most important ones) and for tea ones.

This is why I was delighted to learn that the first German Tea Festival was being held in this town.

But first things first.

Bremen is a Hanseatic (yes me and the Hansa…) town in Northwest Germany, alongside the river Wesser and together with its “advanced” port Bremerhaven, they form the city-state of Bremen.

To be honest, Bremen is a nice “old” town with several typical things (Bremen Roland, the Town Musicians, Böttcherstraße, the Schnoor), but Bremerhaven is a bit too modern when compared to its sister town (that was my personal point of view on this matter).

After this few tourist lines, let’s go back to what really matters to you (or you wouldn’t read this blog): the German Tea Festival and tea.

The Festival was hold in the Bremen-Arena as a part of the Hanselife fair, a huge yearly fair with lots of different things to see (cars, hobby, food…).

I was there for the “opening” of the Tea Festival and a presentation by a German Tea Master.

He gave a lot of explanations on Japanese tea and on the Japanese tea ceremony, some of them I knew but some I didn’t (you can always learn something).

What I found quite interesting was his way to give me some foods for thoughts by linking the different tea ceremonies (including the Frisian one) together as a way of taking time to be with each other, to interact with these people and somehow to respect.

He was unable to perform the tea ceremony for the Bremen Mayor as this one was late and he had also a problem with his hand. However his son performed a tea ceremony that you will see below.

Filming this ceremony also helped me find out that my camera only makes films under 8 minutes: tea teaches you a lot of things ;)

After that, I climbed the stairs to the first floor and went to the Tea Festival per se.

The first steps led me to the tepiano stand where they were demonstrating and selling a tea Thermos made of glass but not a normal one, one where you could steep your tea either directly or through a filter.

Interesting stuff to see

Next to them was the stand of midori t, a German company specialising in Japanese teas and teawares.

I even saw some teas from the Palais des Thés.

A few steps later, two stands were selling their teas (Darjeeling for one and various teas for the other) but they were shadowed by a Samurai passing by and speaking in German.

The next two stands belonged to the German tea master from before and I spoke a bit with him about the different Japanese teas (this is one of these moments when you really want to speak a little more of a foreign language) before he offered a Matcha that had a slight spinach and nuts taste.

A small stand was standing here and this is where I found a book on tea but one in German.

It is from an editor called Umschau that specialise in books on food.

I read a few pages and found it was quite complete (they even mentioned the tea produced in Switzerland).

I am sure you have probably guessed it but I will still tell you: I bought it.

The last stand was from another company that sells a lot of fruit teas with real fruits.

I tried one of their teas but as usual, I had an headache after drinking it.

The last look before leaving the German Tea Festival was for the collection of tea related pictures.

My impression? The name of tea festival seems a bit over-rated as it was rather small and focused a lot of Japanese teas.

Was it an enjoyable experience? Yes.

Was it a memorable one? No.

The next step was a trip back to my favourite tea salon in Bremen, the one located in the Schnoor.

This tea house is located in a small street and is in a small two floors shop with nice little tables with candles.

Their teas are from Ronnefeldt and they have a “small” tea (and wine) card but with enough choice.

I took a Badamtam 1st Flush and a Superior Fancy Oolong together with a nice typical German pastry.

And they were quite good.

 

Category: Industry  8 Comments

France, its colonies and tea

I know it is probably quite strange to publish something about a country that is going to get under the ever cautious eyes of Mr @thedevotea himself and that @lahikmajoe wrote about.

What is even worst is knowing that in 2009, with a mere 0,21 kg per year and per capita, France ranked 88 in terms of tea consumption per capita and per year (along really known tea drinkers countries like Azerbaijan, Belize and Moldiva) (source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_countries_by_tea_consumption_per_capita and the Food and Agriculture Organisation of the United Nations).

But we are talking about the country of Theodor, Palais des Thés, Mariage Frères, Kusmi Tea, Dammann Frères and so many others I forgot to name (and no this is not a ranking), so there must be something to it.

I did some research and found online a book published in 1912, L’agriculture pratique des pays chauds, a compilation of newspapers from the Bulletin du Jardin Colonial et des jardins d’essai des colonies françaises (Bulletin from the Colonial Garden and the French Tropical Botanical Gardens).

I think the best way to sum up this article is to say that some of the French colonies had potential but lacked both the cheap labour needed to harvest tea and the skilled one needed to prepare it.

The main producing area was Indochina but I will come back to it later.

In Senegal, there was no tea but a kind of ersatz, the Lippia adoensis, but the production was rather low.

Mayotte and Madagascar produced some tea (not much) but mostly in private gardens or through experiments with plants comings from Java or Ceylon.

The production in the second of these islands is said to have been of excellent quality but I don’t know how they judged it.

La Réunion must have shown great promises since tea production was introduced at least 4 times (1816, 1841, 1858 and 1894) from Java or Ceylon, mostly because the interest seems to have vanished because of the same reasons that seem to have plagued the French tea industry.

However, the quality was there since in 1867, tea from La Réunion earned the gold medal at the Paris Universal Exposition (the writer wrote the London one but it must be a mistake).

Now we are getting to Indochina, the tea jewel of the French Empire.

The local people produced a tea but it was badly prepared (at least for the European standards) and as such was not really interesting for the colonial power or the rich local people (who drank Chinese tea)

It seems that the missionaries were among the first to introduce tea production (mostly because no one ever thought of competing against the Chinese teas) in Assam from where it went in the whole country.

The different plantations belonged to French owners and the production was directly sold through them.

But all this for what?

Here is the tea consumption in France during these years.

As you will see it is not really that bright with a really low consumption per inhabitant and a stable price (rather typical of the period).

 

I would have liked to publish here some of the pictures that first inspired me but I asked for the authorization and didn’t receive it.

So I can only put the link here and hope you will click on it.

http://anom.archivesnationales.culture.gouv.fr/sdx/ulysse/index

After clicking on it, just write “thé” in the “Plein texte” box and then hit enter.

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