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From one cliché to another

I wrote some times ago a post about how sometimes tea people were wrongly perceived as being old grannies drinking their tea at 5 o’clock. I “just” found now about another cliché but a more positive one. To be more precise, it just came to my mind but I am sure it has been playing around for quite some time now.

This one comes from TV shows where most people drink coffee and enjoy it really, really much. You want a proof? Just think of Gibb’s rule number 23: “Never mess with a Marine’s coffee if you want to live.”

For those who might not know who the guy pictured just above is, he is a Special Agent and a team leader working for the Naval Criminal Investigative Service or NCIS in the show of the same name.

To be honest, I couldn’t remember this one but knowing how much Leroy Jethro Gibbs liked drinking coffee and creating rules, I had no doubt that I was going to find one.

But let’s get back on topic. As I said, in TV shows, most people drink coffee. But what about those who drink tea? First of all, is there anyone drinking tea in these shows?

I thought about different shows I saw and found quite a few people drinking tea on a regular basis and enjoying it.

Who? All the guys below.

To name them for those who are probably not always in front of television screens (after all, we all have a real life going on somewhere), you have Captain Jean-Luc Picard, Sherlock Holmes, Sherlock Holmes and Moriarty, Patrick Jane and Gabriel “Sylar” Gray.

What can we learn from this panel?

First, tea drinking is not limited to a specific genre as we have sci-fi, polar, super-heroes. Obviously, it would be strange to see tea in a Western or in a Middle Age show but apart from that, there is no specificity.

Second, tea is not necessarily for the good guys or the gentle ones: Moriarty is a criminal mastermind, Gabriel “Sylar” Gray is one of the main antagonists (I never watched Heroes but from what I read, he became a good guy later on) and the three others are “good” guys but can be ruthless when the need arises (going really, really far and crossing the border between good and evil).

Third, tea is not for British only as only Sherlock Holmes and Moriarty are and the others are American or French.

However, there are a couple of things they all have in common. I could start with a certain style or desire to be stylish, be it in their schemes, plans or by the way they look and dress.

All these characters are also quite intelligent and in a way more intellectual than the other characters, with an interest on analysing things and solving problems.

All these little hints give us a portrait of the tea drinker as seen by the people behind TV shows and this portrait is another cliché but a much more appealing one than the one I began this post with.

However, this is just another stereotype of what a tea drinker should be but I don’t believe it is what tea drinkers are and how they are.

In order to help me prove myself wrong, could you post here any other tea drinker in TV shows that doesn’t follow one of these two stereotypes?

Winter is coming

Winter is coming and no, this has nothing to do with Game of Thrones or with the season. Yes, in both cases, winter is truly coming but in tea, you could say that.

But first we need to take a step back in time and go back to the Canton system and understand how the VOC (the Dutch East India Company), the EIC (the East India Company) and all the other companies traded with China through one of the only ports if not the only one opened to foreigners, Canton.

For different reasons, which I will not deal with, China, until the First Opium War only “traded” with Europe through merchants (the Hong Merchants) appointed for that. Trade might be a big word as for Chinese, it was all about tributes to the Emperor and gifts from him (also the trade along the Horse and Tea Road between Tibet and China). And translating the role of the Hong Merchants as simple merchants is too narrow as they were responsible for everything regarding to the trade with the foreigners from managing the warehouse, buying the goods (and selling them), dealing with the inland suppliers, paying the port charges and taxes for the foreigners and getting this money back… but detailing what these “middle men” did would bring us too far away from my topic.

What I will explain here was something that happened every year before 1833 (year of the vote of the India Act, by which the Parliament ordered the East India Company to say goodbye to its last trade monopoly: the trade with China) and probably some years after that but I couldn’t find any real evidence for the year when winter tea was no longer sold.

Yes you read it, a tea was sold that was called winter tea because they were sent from Canton to England by the first ships of the new trading season that left the Chinese coast in early autumn and arrived and were sold in London or any other port of call in winter.

Their price was lower as they were older leaves that were just the left-overs from the previous season.

But why will you ask? Why was there any left-overs?

In this time, contracts were agreed upon between the EIC and the Hong Merchants by asking each one of them for a quantity of a said quality at a fixed time and price. However for practical reasons, the quantity could vary depending on the overall production and how well each merchant did. The same went for the quality of the tea and thus its classification among the different type of teas that according to several reports from that era was rather subjective.

This meant that quite often a lot of tea boxes didn’t make it to the market on the first move and were stored for a later use (at a lower price).

Let’s explain this with a real example. In 1831-1832 season, the need in London was estimated at 17.5 millions pounds while the stocks (from winter tea) were almost at 7 millions, which meant that 10.5 millions pounds of tea (or 124,000 chests) were to be imported.

The EIC ordered 110,000 of them and received in Canton 204,000 chests; of which 140,000 were said to be of the “quality asked by contract” while the remaining 64,000 chests were said to be of inferior quality, and became the winter tea of the next season.

This can seem quite unbelievable but is partly explained by the fact that all those contracts were not written but oral and by the differences between the two countries.

For the English law, a contract was a contract be it written or oral. However, it seems that the EIC had a different approach in China by which an oral contract was more an indication of how much tea it needed and how much it was willing to pay for. This indication bounded the honour of the company but less than a written contract.

For the Chinese, the situation was even more complex as in that time, there was no commercial law in China, which meant that any conflict had to be solved through negotiation, help from other merchants and discussion.

The only things that made both parties fulfil year after year their part of the deal were the knowledge that they would be back the following year but also the money they made in that business, ensuring that they all wanted to stay in it.

From the EIC and the Hong Merchants point of view, winter tea was just a way of doing the best of a “lawless” situation, of regulating the market and being able to cope with the complexity of the supply chain and the uncertainty of the quality and of the demand.

However, only a few years after the market was deregulated, this winter tea vanished as the market found a new equilibrium after both the EIC and the Canton system were taken away and also because of the introduction of more formal contracts because of the multiplication of people involved in this business.

That’s how it goes; Everybody knows

I travelled a little bit these last days and I heard on radio two things that made me think about tea. The first one was an interview of a famous cook (whose name I never had heard and I don’t remember) that spoke about bakers and the return to higher quality products with a critic of the race to low-cost that has been raging through this industry in the past years. The second one was an interview (yes another) of an ice cream maker that sold high quality ice creams at a high price, saying (I am quoting from memory) that “it was not a regular ice cream” and commenting about the uniqueness and quality of the ingredients used to make them.
Even if they didn’t pronounce it, the word premium came to my mind as they seemed to imply that their products were above the others and in an area where price didn’t really matter. I don’t remember how much an ice cream was but it was for heavier scoops as usual which combined to its high quality made it something exceptional, at least according to the ice cream maker.

You will now ask me what is this premium thing you are talking about and why should I care about it when I am drinking my tea? Premium according to Merriam-Webster is a high value or a value in excess of that normally or usually expected source.
For tea, it would mean having more than you bargained for, more than you expected from what you drank. Does the tea market go that way?
I wrote something a while ago on generic strategies for speciality tea or industry wide companies but after hearing these people and thinking about it, I think that this premium strategy could work for most companies.
What is a premium strategy? It is a variant of the diversification strategy where a company tries to increase the perceived quality of its products leading to an increase in the perceived value and a willingness by the customer to pay more, allowing the company to increase its margins.
By doing this, a company manages to create a specific image, one that set it apart from the competition, one that allows it to go on another level creating a need and a market because its products are no longer perceived as one among others but because they became the standard that helps to measure the competition.
This strategy is the one adopted by several luxury cars companies, nearly all luxury good companies and some coffee companies (you know which one, I won’t dare to tell their names to you).
The first drawback is obvious; if people think that what they experienced is not worth the extra cost paid, they will turn to competitors (quite often cheaper ones). The second drawback is more complex as it will depend on the economy and the willingness of the customers to buy these products because they make them someone special and unique. Whereas this is easy for a car or a watch, it is more difficult to be perceived this way with tea (but the same goes for a lot of commodities, non-alcoholic drinks and so on).

You don’t believe this is a common strategy on the tea market? Just look at your favourite brand and the products it has decided to sell over the past years. I am sure you will find a little exclusive approach to them. This can take the form of having really rare or exotic teas or of specific blends that no one else does (even if some companies specialised in recreating any blend given to them) or a mix of both.

However what they all need to do if they want to keep on focusing on this premium approach is to enlarge their customer base, to be identified as being something special and unique, to rise through a new market level and stop fighting in a niche. Even if tea is said to be the second liquid drunk on Earth after water (even if it sounds a little strange), it needs to cross boundaries and become either something that everything will drink or develop a specific and positive image in the collective minds of almost every.
Without this awareness, the premium strategies will probably not be successful on the long run as the market will remain small in numbers and highly competitive with a lot of companies making and selling teas.
This is probably the biggest challenge faced by everyone in the tea industry.

There can never be surprises in logic

Following my latest post, I dug a little more into the plantation concept and I received some more information from a couple of people, so here is the follow-up.

According to the Tea Board of India, there are 833 small tea farmers in Darjeeling. I couldn’t get all the information I needed on them to compare them to the data I had but I got something.

For example, 60 of these farmers are gathered in a cooperative with approximatively 23 hectares of tea that aims to produce through its factory 15,000 kilograms of tea per year, which means an average production for the cooperative of 250 kg per tea farmer or 652 kg per ha. I wrote for the cooperative as they might sell it too to others (I have no info on that), which would mean that they could produce more.

When compared to the data available on the Nepalese small farmers (658.27 kg per site, i.e. per tea farmer and 847.43 per ha), the numbers I found for Darjeeling are much lower, meaning either a lower productivity per hectare (and coming back to the “problems” of older trees) or a willingness to produce less for higher quality or because of a more sustainable approach. However, this data is only on a small sample and might not be representative of the overall picture.

So after getting back on track, let’s get back to where we stopped last time and that was speaking about the financial backing needed to go into this business. From there on, I will dig a little more into this financial aspect, go through history/economical politics before trying to see what is specific in the “traditional” model of big estates before checking why would this model fail (if it fails that is).

Tea estates like most of the plantation crops can trace their roots to the 19th century (even if some were there earlier because of being cultivated during and fuelling the European colonial expansion). And like all of them, tea production was hit by a drop in demand and therefore in price (since they hadn’t foreseen it, there was an overproduction) during the crisis following Black Tuesday (the Wall Street Crash of 1929).

“There have been attempts to restrict tea production in the past. In the world recession of the 1930s, tea prices fell dramatically. This prompted the major producers – India, Ceylon and the Netherlands East Indies – to enter into International Tea Agreements, which restricted production to 85 per cent of normal.i

The obvious results of both the crisis and the reduction in production was that only those with cash could go through these years, leading to a further concentration as those without cash were absorbed and the small holders went to other crops that allowed them to eat or to gain more cash, just like in the Netherlands East Indies (http://teaconomics.teatra.de/2014/08/22/rise-and-fall-and/) or simply did not have the cash to withstand the decline in pricesii

Following the independence of India and as in most countries going through the same process, there was a wave of nationalisation of key sectors but the effects on tea were not those that could have been expected.

“Following on independence, the Indian government began to plan extensive nationalization of key industries. Tea featured in some of the recommendations, and many British companies took fright and began to run their estates down. They spent as little as they could on maintenance and renewal […] They also sold some estates to Indians. […] This catalogue of attacks on the British tea interest might have been expected to drive it out of India. However, it proved remarkably resilient. The companies that were sold were, in general, those with the poorer land or less successful management. The yield on the remaining British estates remained consistently higher than on the Indian-owned estates so that, although acreage fell, production was proportionally less affected.iii

This extract explains why nationalization didn’t mean the end of foreign controlled estates (which were still among the big players) or a rise in the support for small holders since the only known development models were focusing on productivity and heavy industry.

Furthermore, as in most independent countries, India focused on national development with protectionism and a premium to national industries (I don’t forget the Green Revolution but since I didn’t find any evidence that it had an impact on the tea industry I can’t be 100% sure about it).

“In the new tariff regime, investment costs sharply increased in businesses that relied on imported equipment, including tea.iv

As you can guess, all this combined meant that more cash was needed to invest in tea, to produce and “manufacture” tea, which meant that small farmers couldn’t efficiently compete.

In the previous lines, I spoke a lot about India and the independence process but not at all about Nepal. You might ask why. Simply because before 1951, Nepal was closed to foreigners and avoided as much as possible any contact with them (this was seen as a way to keep its independence).

After 1951, Nepal undertook a series of Five-Year Plans to develop first its infrastructures and communication and then agriculture (with cash crops being given priority in the Fifth Plan running from 1975 to 1980).

The situation and priority changed later on in both countries in the recent years and small tea farmers now have the support of both governments as can be seen in the most recent position and strategy papers in both countries.

“To attain the above position of tea industry in Nepal in 2020, the following strategies need to be adopted:

[…]

  1. Provide support to small tea farmers for preparation of loan scheme and application and assist in the availing of credit from ADB/N and Commercial Banks.v

Why this change? The reason is simple. It is thanks to the new trends in consumption (smaller production, more authentic/sustainable/fair products). Small farmers are seen as those able to satisfy this demand; perhaps thanks to a higher motivation? Or to a certain ease to change their production processes?

Does this mean that in the modern consumption world, the small farmers model is more efficient? Once you have left the financing/investment aspect, what is left of the “sheer logistics of the old model” as said by Lazylitteratus in his original post? Does it make the old model inefficient?

We have seen that size, production and productivity set both models apart but the fundamental difference could lie in what makes the tea production system.

What I mean by system is everything needed to produce tea and to sell it. Since a picture is worth a thousand words, here is an oversimplified drawing of what I see as the tea production system.

Tea_Estate_system

The tea production system

To again simplify things, there are three main suppliers of these services, the private sector, the public one and a mix of both.

Factories are needed to produce tea and they are linked to an estate or a company like in the “old” model (but smaller farmers can be allowed to have access to it) or linked to a State initiative or to a cooperative (backed or not by an estate).

Schools and infrastructures are something that the State has to provide. They can both benefit from private “help” or sponsorship but the final provider remains the State, which means that everyone, all around the country has to pay for it.

“There are three schools […] they belong to the Indian government. The estate has nothing to pay to keep them operating (apart from a few repairs now and then). Furthermore, the registration is not really free as the family must pay 250 rupees per year. Like the health system, these measures are mandatory by Indian law.vi

Health and housing should be provided by the estate but the situation depends on the estate and evidences are not so clear as to who pays what and why (hence why I won’t say anything further on this topic). In theory, the Indian law make a free health system mandatory for the workers of the organised sectorvii. This means that for health and housing the estate should pay something (but according to different sources, on some estates, they don’t pay much).

So we saw that most of the things that makes the tea system are either provided by the State or are not really making a huge difference. The only factor left and the reason why the “logistics of the old model” might be failing (unless someone points me to what is lacking) comes from the only thing that we have not studied yet: people.

On an estate, there are two different kinds of people: those working on a temporary basis and the permanent ones, those last one being paid all year long.

Permanent workers

Temporary workers

Total

Number

% of total

Number

% of total

Darjeeling

2,734

62.63

1,631

37.37

4,365

Terai

1,056

31.99

2,245

68.01

3,301

Dooars

11,672

68.01

5,489

31.99

17,161

Total

15,462

62.28

9,365

37.72

24,827

Number of workers in the factories in West Bengal in 2004viii

Permanent workers

Temporary workers

Total

Number

% of total

Number

% of total

Darjeeling

45,919

93.72

3,079

6.28

48,998

Terai

23,866

65.21

12,730

34.79

36,596

Dooars

135,085

88.73

17,166

11.27

152,251

Total

204,870

86.14

32,975

13.86

237,845

Number of workers in the fields in West Bengal in 2004ix

Permanent workers

Temporary workers

Total

Number

% of total

Number

% of total

Darjeeling

48,653

91.17

4,710

8.83

53,363

Terai

24,922

62.47

14,975

37.53

39,897

Dooars

146,757

86.63

22,655

13.37

169,412

Total

220,332

83.88

42,340

16.12

262,272

Number of workers in the tea estates in West Bengal in 2004

As can be seen from the data I found (I know these are official figures and that reality can be different but I had to use some figures), the permanent workers are the most numerous ones, which means that most of the workers are paid the whole year.

To compare those percentages to something, I can tell you that in 1985, the family farms in Gujarat employed 70% of temporary workersx.

This highlights the real difference between both models. It is not as much the investments or the production capacity but rather the way the people are employed and paid that makes the difference.

“In fact, reliance on family labour is usually the main factor explaining why small family farms are more efficient than large ones relying on hired labour which necessitates costly supervision (Muyanga and Jayne 2014,4).xi

I guess this conclusion is not really what we expected.

iTea, Addiction, Exploitation and Empire by Roy Moxham, Carroll & Graf Publishers, 2004, p.216

iiThe rubber industry: a study in competition and monopoly by P.T. Bauer, Harvard University Press: Cambridge, 1948

iiiTea, Addiction, Exploitation and Empire by Roy Moxham, Carroll & Graf Publishers, 2004, p.207-208

ivTrading Firms in Colonial India by Tirthanka Roy, Business History Review, Harvard University Press: Cambridge, Spring 2014, p.41

vConcept Paper on Study of Nepalese Tea Industry – Vision 2020 submitted by Ajit N.S. Thapa, March 2005

viLes réalités du commerce équitable – l’exemple d’une plantation de Darjeeling by Arnaud Kaba, L’Harmattan, 2011, p.131 (the translation is mine)

viiLes réalités du commerce équitable – l’exemple d’une plantation de Darjeeling by Arnaud Kaba, L’Harmattan, 2011, p.129

viiiLes réalités du commerce équitable – l’exemple d’une plantation de Darjeeling by Arnaud Kaba, L’Harmattan, 2011, p.121

ixLes réalités du commerce équitable – l’exemple d’une plantation de Darjeeling by Arnaud Kaba, L’Harmattan, 2011, p.121

xPatronage and Exploitation by Breman, Berkeley, University of California Press, 1985

xiLarger Plantations versus Smallholding in Southeast Asia: Historical and Contemporary Trends by Jean-François Bissonnette and Rodolphe De Koninck, Conference Paper n°12, Land grabbing, conflict and agrarian-environmental transformations: perspectives from East and Southeast Asia, April 1985

There was no doubt that it paid to make the gardens

As quite often these days, this month article was inspired by @lazyliteratus or rather by him being quoted by the Nikkei Asian Review in an article on Nepal and Darjeeling teas.

Even if Geoffrey’s article was not focusing only on how the tea is produced but more on how civil, all the tea industry/drinkers… can and should be. To quote him “Tea is just tea. It’s dead leaves in hot water. Nothing more. There is no money in it. The value lies in the way we -as people- experience it. The value is in the story of the person who picked the two leaves and bud… in the person who did the withering, rolling and drying… in the artisan who shaped it… in the merchant who hocked it… in the wide-eyed seller who bought it… and in the drinker who experienced it.” If you want the whole story, just go there.

But he did write that the “old plantation model is dying.” And this assessment that I overlooked at that time came back to me when I read by the other article I was referring too. That question was too big to let it go away and I will try to bring some elements to answer it, not from a tea quality point of view (I won’t judge if a model is better than the other as there is never a true answer that is valid forever and out of a peculiar context) but more by trying to draw elements from different social sciences (to see what is in this field of research, you can check here).

The fist question that needs to be answered is what are we talking about? In other words, what is a plantation? Is there a plantation model? Do Nepal and Darjeeling tea organisation fit into this model? I will try to answer the question of its oldness along the way.

According to the Cambridge dictionary, a plantation is “a large farm, especially in a hot part of the world, on which a particular type of crop is grown.” Now, this brings more questions than it answers but it is a start.

From an article on agricultural plantationsi, it seems English classified their rubber tree plantation based on the size of the piece of land. With the estate being more than 40 ha and the small holding less than 40, we can see there is a huge gap between the two of them and to make it more solid, a further distinction was made with small holdings (less than 4 ha), medium estates (4 to 40 ha), estates (40 to 200) and big estates (above 200 ha).

So let’s compare Nepal tea estates and Darjeeling ones to see who fits where.

Number

Surface

Production

Total (ha)

Per site (ha)

Total (kg)

Per ha (kg)

Per site (kg)

Estates

87

14,596

167.46

13,265,152

908.82

152,473.01

Small farmers

14,898

11,569

0.78

9,803,934

847,43

658.07

Total

17,985

26,165

1.45

23,069,086

881,68

1,282.68

Data from fiscal year 2014-2015 on Nepal tea estatesii

Number

Surface

Production

Total (ha)

Per site (ha)

Total (kg)

Per ha (kg)

Per site (kg)

Estates

87

17,820

204.83

8,480,000

475.87

97,471.26

Data from fiscal year 2014-2015 on Darjeeling tea estatesiii

I couldn’t find any data on small farmers in Darjeeling apart from a few references to them, which means the comparison between Nepal and Darjeeling is not 100% complete but it is a start.

From the data gathered and their average (which is not always the best instrument to compare things as I once said), it seems obvious that there are two different sets of production places in Nepal, the small holdings (the more numerous and with almost 50% of the total tea plantation surface) and the estates (with the biggest production share).

When comparing Nepal to Darjeeling, where plantations are in the big estates category, some counter-intuitive facts are brought forward. For example, the productivity of the tea hectare in Darjeeling is lower than in Nepal or the production of the Darjeeling tea estates is lower than those of the small farmers in Nepal alone.

Regarding the productivity, there are three obvious explanations that might need some further research: a more sustainable/biodynamic approach being used in Darjeeling, a productivity problem (with trees being older and thus giving less tea), a deliberate lowering of the production with the aim of increasing the price on the short/middle run.

Traditionally in agriculture, the intensive farming was the dominant model, meaning that the aim was to mass produce to give access to the maximum number of people, which coupled with the high amount of money needed to create tea plantations (between jungle clearing, bringing the tea trees, nursing them, bringing the needed labour to the selected area) meant that only people with a good financial support could do it.

A fine example can be found when tea was introduced in Assam: “The situation continued to deteriorate and by 1847 the Company would have been glad to sell out if anyone had been ready to buy.iv” The first dividend was paid in 1853 and at that time, fortune began to change, favouring those who had invested so much.

So capital was needed to enter the tea market which combined to the high expectations from those putting money in this business, only big estates were being build (something that was natural in these days) but did this problem suddenly disappeared to allow for smaller tea gardens to become interesting?

No. This is a rather straightforward answer, isn’t it? Don’t worry, I will back it up. “Establishment of tea garden requires huge investment with long gestation period. Equity capital forms only a small portion of the total investment. The rest has to be raised through loans from the financial institutions. It has been found that the loans provided to tea gardens for the planting of tea and its maintenance per unit of land is inadequate.v

So the financial problem is not the key to the selection of one model or of another and we will have to look a little bit further to see if one model is better than the other.

Sources

i Jean Delvert A point of view about agricultural plantations, in Bulletin de l’Association de géographes français, 67e année 1990-3

iiNational Tea and Coffee Development Board, http://www.teacoffee.gov.np/en/

iiiTea Board of India, http://teaboard.gov.in/

ivGreen Gold, the Empire of tea by Alan Macfarlane and Iris Macfarlane, Ebury Press, 2004, p.146

vConcept Paper on Study of Nepalese Tea Industry -Vision 2020, March 2005

Who needs a strategy for picking new teas?

I was a few days ago in Germany in a tea shop/saloon (or lounge as they called it) and I went through their catalog to see what they had in stock and to compare their newest teas and blends with what I had seen in France (for example a rise in Oolong coming from “exotic” countries). Surprisingly enough, I didn’t have that feeling, although I went to “big” names on each national markets.
This made me curious about how these companies select their new products and those that come to market.

There is always the history that someone (the founder, the explorers…) made some discovery and brought them to us, the customer.
It can be true but it is more likely to happen in smaller companies than in bigger ones as people in bigger companies have too many things to do to just get lost somewhere and find a hidden jewel.
An other explanation came to my mind when I started considering each “big” or medium-sized tea company as a brand .

You know brand right? They are the little communication tools that allows one company to be differentiated from another. Usually, you would think of brands through mundane things such as logo, name…; however, they also generate a lasting impression on their customers and potential customers, because they are known, because they have values, because friends talked about it, because of the packaging…
For example, TeeKampagne is specialised in selling Darjeeling at an affordable price and in a sustainable system. Obviously, should this company sell flavoured tea, its customers would be lost and wouldn’t understand what is going on, resulting in decreasing sales.
And this is true for every company, even if most will state that they try to “bring you the best teas from all around the world” or something along that, which means that you will expect them to sell you all kinds of tea.

Once a company has a more or less clear definition of what it is supposed to make and sell, one of its strategies (a plausible one for the generalist company described above) is to enter new market segment with products they were not selling, in order to attract new customers with teas they will like or to increase the loyalty (ie the purchases) of existing customers by bringing them new experiences and new products.

This approach can be summarized through a simple example with a matrix with on one axe the width of the product mix, which means the basic categories and on another, the depth, displaying the different products sold in the different categories. The total number of products sold being the length of the product mix.
I must have lost you all, so I will write down a simple and fictional example.

Oolong

Black tea

Green tea

Taiwan

Darjeeling

Matcha

China

Lapsang Souchon

Korean

Flavoured with fig

Earl Grey

Darjeeling

So here, this company product mix has three different sorts of tea (Oolong, Black and Green), meaning a width of three and for each sort of tea, it sells three different products (a depth of three), which results in a length of the product mix of 9.
From its choices, it is obvious that this company is trying to “bring to your cup the best teas from all around the world” as it covers all the classical teas that most people know about from Darjeeling to Earl Grey while offering something for more demanding clients (Matcha, Oolong) or a few specific teas that might not be seen elsewhere (Oolong flavoured with figs, Lapsang Souchong).
This product line allows this company to experiment with different strategies that can be combined : go for one or more new non-flavoured teas, introduce more flavoured teas, create a new category with the introduction of herbal teas…

Now imagine this for your favourite tea companies and you might begin to understand why they decided to go for such or such products this year. This can go as far as launching a new category of upper quality teas or of more affordable teas.
All options are open as long as it doesn’t blur the message the company wants to sent to the customers. This is why new brands can be launched to focus on a specific new market that is totally alien to the original product line.
But this is another story.

Any customer can have a car painted any color that he wants so long as it is black

1919 Ford Model T Highboy Coupe photographed by User:Sfoskett

Everybody has heard this sentence by Henry Ford that is usually misunderstood to mean something like “we don’t care about customers, we know what they want”. The truth is that because of the development of assembly line (which allowed for a drop in price), black was the only colour that could be used because it dried quicker than any other.

 

Are customers taken into account in the tea industry and since when? To answer that question, we will have to travel to…

 

Austria… This name implies different things depending on your sensibilities.

Joseph Schumpeter

Portrait of Elisabeth in 1865 by Franz Xaver Winterhalter

For an economist, it rings a bell on Joseph Schumpeter and his “creative destruction” (something linked to economic innovation and business cycles) or the Austrian School (an approach of economy related to the motivations and actions of individuals).
For those more familiar with history or the crowned people, Austria means the Empress Elisabeth of Austria aka Sisi or Maria Theresa, an earlier Empress whose accession to the throne sparkled a war known as the War of Austrian Succession.

Portrait of Maria Theresa in 1759 by Martin van Meytens

None of this really seems linked to tea, even if Maria Theresa had a taste for Chinoiseries that you can see when visiting the Schönbrunn Palace in Vienna (if you want to see a part of it, here is a 360° picture of one of the rooms http://www.schoenbrunn.at/fileadmin/content/schoenbrunn/panoramas/29_vieux_laque_zimmer.swf)

Which brings us to the main city of Austria, which I visited some times ago and was the subject of a blog post (http://teaconomics.teatra.de/2014/07/27/cause-im-tnt/), which for an obscure reason is now without my pictures. However, you might say and you will be right that in spite of everything I found there, Vienna is a coffee town.

However what brings me today in Vienna (at least on my keyboard) is something completely different and I am sure it will frighten some of you when you read my topic for today post: sociology and most specifically one of the major figures in 20th century American sociology: Paul Lazarsfeld.

Paul Lazarsfeld ©Bardwell press

This Austrian was a doctorate in mathematics and when he came to sociology in the 1920s-1930s, he brought to this field his expertise in mathematics and quantitative studies. Thanks to a study on the social impact of unemployment on a small community (Die Arbeitlosen von Marienthal) published in 1932, he attracted the attention of the Rockefeller Foundation and was invited for a two-years travelling fellowship to the USA. When the time to go home was there and because of the political climate in Austria (he was a Jewish and a socialist), he decided to stay in America, where he created an institute in Newark along the lines of his Vienna Research Centre. I will spare you the details but he created another one  in Columbia, became a major figure on the impact and power of mass media (first radio) and created/experimented with several new and “modern” techniques like panel studies, mathematical models and an empirical approach to his studies that since the beginning and the Vienna years allowed him to get funds from private companies, a way to fund his institute at a time when Universities were not ready to support such a group.

Which brings me at least (at least for you reader) to tea.
One of these early sociological studies is named Tea and the Viennese or in German Der Tee und die Wiener was made in 1932. This study was commissioned by a coffee and tea importer company Julius Meinl that still exists today.

Julius Meinl logo over the years © Julius Meinl

A translation in English was made in 1934 for Rensis Likert’s students but it seems to have been lost and the only documents are in German and in the Lazarsfeld Archive at the University of Vienna. This means that I couldn’t get my hands on any original document and that I had to rely on secondary sources.

The goal of this study was to know why some Viennese drank tea and whether or not others could be “convinced” to drink tea, which meant in a city dominated like most Europe by coffee drinkers, a huge potential market.
According to the results, it seems that at that time people had no troubles speaking with researchers for long period of times, a situation rather unlikely nowadays.
353 tea drinkers were interviewed and the split is quite interesting: 63 were members of the working class, 166 of the lower middle class and 124 of the higher class. To further the knowledge, 288 people were asked about what they thought of specific words or sentences that could be used for tea and 1,749 others about what they drank and how often. This shows a rather complete approach to understand what motivate people.
All of them drank tea either barely each day or occasionally. The former was more common among the members of the working class while the later among the two other classes. However, something that set tea and coffee apart was that tea was drank all day long and its consumption increased as the day went on (while coffee was mostly drank in the morning).
A third of the Viennese tea drinkers came from a family where it was a customary beverage while the majority of them began drinking later on for three main reasons:
1. a conscious choice to do something different than in your previous life be it because of study, getting married, rebellion against their old life, new job…;
2. an external influence like wanting to be a part of something different, a smaller society with a higher social status;
3. an introduction to tea because of sickness and keeping with it.
Only one respondent, even in the Great Depression times, answered that her motivation was the lower cost of tea.

Even if this study was made 80 years ago, there are still some things that could be useful in it and knowing why people drank tea in these times is still an insight for us on who we are, why we drink tea and so on. Now the question that remains is do we drink tea for the same reasons or not? I will let everyone think about it and answer that question.

They were looking for unicorns

This title comes from an essay by Umberto Eco, the famous Italian writer (among many, many, many other things).
In it,  he argued that when two different cultures meet, there are 5 solutions: conquest (either to make them like us or to destroy them), cultural looting, exchange, exoticism or the false identification. Obviously, the reality is usually more complex and you usually end up with a mix of them.

I can hear you boiling and wondering what is the link between Umberto Eco and tea (unless I missed something he never wrote anything about tea) but to know the answer, you will have as usual to bear a little more with me.

Camellia sinensis in Köhler’s Medicinal Plants

Tea is said to have been discovered by Shennong when he tasted hundred of herbs to see if they had any medical value. The result is said to be compiled in The Classic of Herbal Medicine. Tea being said to be efficient against a great number of poisoned herbs.

Tea appeared quite often in medical books or under most lists like a medicinal plant. For example, in 1887, Franz Eugen Köhler published Kohler’s Medicinal Plants in 3 volumes and guess what plant was in it? Yes, Camellia sinensis.

I am sure you begin to see a pattern here and perhaps see where I am heading.
Why do I say that? It is just because I noticed a trend of false identification in tea, one that has been going for a long time now and I think that if I look at some old ads, it was there even before my time.

Ad by the Tea Council (thanks to @scandaloustea for this ad)

If you read the paragraphs above, you can see that this trend has its roots in how the tea was said to be discovered; how it was first perceived and how it was first sent to and distributed in Europe (in private chests by seamen trying to improve their income and then distributed as a pharmaceutical drug).

False identification means that we explore and discover the world based on what we read about it and I would go as far as saying what we expect to find in it.
Tea was considered from the beginning as a medical herb and in an era where obsessed with well-being (which reveals something else about us too) this shows as tea is now said to have all kind of virtues. I won’t bother you with a list of all of them as I would probably forget a lot of them.
Therefore, we are expecting a lot of tea leave and we are interpreting everything about it with this focus in mind.

Aren’t we trying too hard to find something in tea?
Umberto Eco concluded his essay by saying that instead of focusing on finding unicorns, we should perhaps try to understand the nature, the habits and language of the dragons.
Perhaps we should stop trying to find anything in tea and just “listen” to it, enjoy it and let it speak to our tastes and our soul.
After all, traditional Chinese and Japanese tea drinking methods are all about water, leaves,  simplicity and nothing more.
I think there is something that the Long and the Nihon no ryū are trying to tell us.