Category: Industry

Problems are not the problem

I am sure this title puzzles you and furthermore, I can also say that there is a problem going on in the tea world or I could say that there is a big one.

You can relax since the first rule of dumb if you want to be read is that you need to begin with something dramatic to catch the eye and the attention of the reader-to-be. So allow me to use this artifice for a couple of lines in order to get your attention.

Now that I have it, I can begin with the « problem » that I have identified or should I say the problems as I have identified two of them but feel free to add more of them in the comments and I will see if I can add them to my list or write about them later on.

And no, don’t worry, they are far less dramatic than the climate change (that might turn into a real problem for the tea world by reshuffling the cards about the production places) or anything big like this but more with things from our everyday life, things that everyone has probably experienced one day or another.

The first one is linked to the way we buy our hot drinks. As you might have noticed, you pay more for a tea than for a coffee. Since there is not much labour involved or any device to pour tea into your cup (and since there is more labour and device involved in coffee-making, the only difference I see to explain it is that the price is based on the quantity of hot water they put into the cup they serve you.

The next step is logical as we all think that we want the right amount of good for the price we paid. This is when we, as customers, face our biggest challenge (and this holds true for tea bags or tea in leaves): the amount of tea in our cup/pot… because of the idea I just explained, we usually drink a bitter tea.

However apart from what economical wisdom says, I still think (like I once wrote) that the main basis for this lies in the lack of education from the people owning and operating tea rooms, restaurants.. and from those drinking tea. There are 3 things that matter for a good tea (apart from the water and the type of tea you have): the water temperature, the amount of tea and the time you leave it into the water.

Usually those that put too much leaves or bags in tea are also leaving it too long and/or at higher temperature, leaving something that is bitter (hence sometimes the sweeteners like milk or sugar but this is something that happens with coffee too).

I think that to enhance customer experience and therefore their likeness to come back and consume more, waiters should be tea educated. It is in the interest of everyone to do so and it could be a good move for the companies providing teas to bars and restaurants, allowing them to :

  1. improve the quality of their products,

  2. decrease the amount of tea per cup.

Both ideas would allow for an increase in quality and either in margin or prices; a win-win situation, no?

The second problem is a trend that comes from the USA, is spreading slowly in Europe and is a bit antonymous with the way people thinks tea should be drunk.

To be clearer, usually, tea is seen as something that needs time, to prepare it and to drink it because it is a social event. However, today, people are more and more in a hurry, always trying to make the most of their time (because time is money) and end up taking hot drinks either in plastic or paper cups and drinking them on the move almost mechanically without giving any thoughts to what is being drunk or to the people around them (and tea is all about sharing with people).

This leads to a certain unity in the way these hot drinks are made and usually not for the better as they are made quickly for use in these disposable cups by people that only have time to burn themselves if they drink too quickly or to taste a cold beverage because they waited too long in the bus or train before they could have the needed space to drink.

With such a predictable use, why would most people want to make a quality product? Since competition is based on price and margins, the answer is simple: no one. Price being more or less the same between the different tea “to go” places, the only way to stay into the business is to make something drinkable, something that will let people feel they have something for the money they paid (see my previous point) and something that doesn’t cost that much so that the margins and profits can be good enough to pay for all these places in urban settings, where the renting prices are usually quite high.

To break away from this infernal spiral, the solution is not unique but in a mix of different small measures:

  1. see above as the quality and training are always a premium for food-stuff and tea is a kind of it,

  2. improve the recyclable aspect of these cups and communicate about these new and better cups,

  3. find a solution to improve the quality of the recipient: use glass since it can be used forever, china bone, 3D printing to make lighter cups that keep things warm while doesn’t changing the taste,

  4. change the layout of the stores to encourage people to talk to each other and to stay a little longer in stores.

This is a move towards a different experience, one that might make people eager to spend 5-10 minutes in the stores rather than hitting the road again. After all, I am sure they/we all have these 5-10 minutes to spare to enjoy a good cup of tea on our way; the question is whether or not we are ready to take them.

(Go West) We will do just fine

I don’t know if you see a pattern between the title of this post quoting the Pet Shop Boys, my previous post where I did a little (and probably not that good) Haiku with a reference to map and tea and what you will find in this post but I hope that by the end of your reading you will.

As the idiom goes, a picture is worth a thousand words. This is what had bothered me when I looked at the FAO data, splitting the world of tea into two categories: the Old World and the New one. If you don’t remember this post, its conclusions were that unlike in the wine industry, there was not a big reversal of production in the tea producing countries (but perhaps interesting developments going on in terms of diversity of producers).

But let’s get back to a picture is worth a thousand words. I am lucky to have at work two people working on our Geographical Information System, which for those who don’t know about it is according to Wikipedia “any information system that integrates, stores, edits, analyzes, shares, and displays geographic information. GIS applications are tools that allow users to create interactive queries (user-created searches), analyze spatial information, edit data in maps, and present the results of all these operations.”

Those two people were friendly enough to help me to refine my needs and helped me find a way to present to you a visual representation of these data.

So you will find below a representation by decade from the 1960s to the 2010s (with the data ending in the year 2014) of the tea producing countries in the world and for each an average of the yearly production of each country during these 10 years. Even if it doesn’t always mean much, I thought it was as good as anything else to represent how much each country weights in the tea world. For more details, just click on the link below each map.

Tea producing countries from 1961 to 1969

Tea producing countries in the 1970s

Tea producing countries in the 1980s

Tea producing countries in the 1990s

Tea producing countries in the 2000s

Tea producing countries between 2010 and 2014

 

What can we learn?

First, that there are over these 50 years only a few new producing countries. I am still undecided whether or not this is true or linked to a problem in the way the FAO collects its data. If you see any country missing on the maps, do tell me and I will look further on.

Second, we can now visually see the rise and decline of some countries in terms of their yearly average production through each decade, something which might be of interest for later investigations.

Third and most important for me, we can now see the 3 main producing blocks in terms of number of countries located on three different continents (the South of Asia, the centre of Africa and South America from North to South) with some more exotic spots around them. It might be obvious to some of you but although I had all the data available, I had no idea that so many countries produced tea until I saw it

And what are your thoughts on these maps? Did they bring anything to you?

Were you born on the sun?

I could have gone with The Times They Are a-Changin’ from Bob Dylan but quoting a Nobel Prize is a bit too much out of my league, so I had to get back to a good old classic, Good Morning Vietnam.

I read just a few days ago in The Washington Post (no I don’t read this journal, I just happened to find out about it thanks to the powerful tool that is a collection of blogs on various topics) that scientists were working to adapt coffee plants for climate changes and other woes. Their efforts go mainly towards the creation of new “species” (something that has been done for centuries) to make up for the limited gene pool as only two species of coffee have been used for human consumption. However, some people say that it might be too late for all the places where coffee is being produced.

This article made me think a little about our (I guess so if you are reading my blog or at least my) favourite drink and what might happen with it. I remembered having found some research reports on some really specific or country related problems, like the future for the Kenyan tea industry.

The most obvious effects of climate change are changes in temperatures, changes in rainfall and a certain unpredictability of the weather (with the famous “there are no seasons anymore”).

For now, perhaps because of the high differences between the different producing countries, I couldn’t find any consensus on the main consequences with things ranging from “we will manage to get through it without any problems” (which seems a bit unbelievable) to “it could be a complete disaster and force us to stop or to reallocate the production of tea in other areas or in other countries.”

The main reason behind these differences is that the producing countries are located in a rather wide set of conditions and on different continents, with each one facing different potential weather problems. Just to illustrate, let me remind you that tea grows mainly in tropical and subtropical climates but some varieties tolerate marine climates. The tea plants require at least 127 cm of rainfall a year and prefer acidic soils but this is not absolutely vital. You can find them in elevations up to 1.500 meters above sea level but also on much lower grounds.

There are however some things that are agreed by most.

First, the climate change is likely to be changing the taste of tea because warmer seasons and less water are interacting with the chemical components of the tea leaves, making them react in other ways as they would “normally” do. This has already been documented in China (in the province of Yunnan) and in Japan.

A second impact that makes consensus is that changing weather hurts the production but in the future who knows what might come up and who knows how fast the changes will go on.

On a positive sidenote, tea bushes requires less water than coffee plants (I read from 1 to 10), which might be of some help.

There are other indications that perhaps the geographical locations of some tea gardens are isolating them creating a micro-climate that could mitigate the effects of the climate change, because of the mountain slopes, the winds and the mist are giving on a daily basis water to the bushes and could make it up for the less frequent and abundant rain.

Mist at a tea garden at Darjeeling by Joydeep

Other solutions advocated are to go for organic approaches with natural techniques to mitigate the impacts, things like having the ground covered by natural nutriments…

For me, at this moment in time and with no certitude regarding any potential long impact, there are three ways :

– trying to improve the plants through research,

– trying to mitigate the effects either through specific methods (better irrigation systems when possible) or through more general ones (like covering the ground),

– migrating the production.

The most likely road is a mix of the three depending on the interest of all the people involved in the tea industry, of the readiness of the consumer to pay more and on the progress of these climate changes.

This means that we (tea drinkers) like a lot of people are likely to see a radical change in the way we have to deal with our favourite drink.

We need to know that and be ready to face changes in the tea industry and support them or try to find better ways for The Times They Are a-Changin’.

And the old one an achievement?

New World… these words reminds me of the Age of Discovery, to sails moving into the wind, to the smell of the sea or if you are more a Sci-Fi person to the travels of the spaceship Enterprise that goes where no man has gone before.

But not today. Today, I will not speak about old times or future times or about games but only about drinks and I will invoke another drink to allow you to better understand what I mean : wine. New World wines are wines that are produced outside of the traditional (ie historical) wine-growing areas of Europe and the Middle-East. The questions are “is there a New World tea question?” and if yes, are there any ideas to take from the wine industry?

As he already did several times without knowing it, a fellow blogger inspired me to move this topic on top of my to-do list with his tasting sessions from teas coming from strange places and done in “strange” ways. So thank you Lazylitteratus.

A preliminary remark is that Old World and New World mean different things depending on whether we are in the wine or the tea industry.

Regarding the definition of what an Old World tea is, I just looked at all the producing countries according to the Food And Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) and classified them.

Here is a list of what I took into account in the Old World category (obviously, this is when you are more than welcome to shoot at myself and tell me that I am wrong):

Bangladesh

China, Mainland

China, Taiwan

India

Indonesia

Japan

Kenya

Malawi

Mozambique

Portugal

Republic of Korea

Sri Lanka

Union of Soviet Socialist Republics

Zimbabwe

The Old World in 1961

My criteria were twofold: first, there had to be before the beginning of the 20th Century some documented growing of tea going on in this country and when I had some doubts, I looked at their production in 1961 (first year reported in the FAO database) and if the production was non-existent or really low, I dropped them off the list.

Obviously since the world has a little changed between 1961 and 2014 (last year available for the FAO statistics), I had to make some change following the fall of the former USSR.

Bangladesh

China, Mainland

China, Taiwan

Georgia

India

Indonesia

Japan

Kenya

Malawi

Mozambique

Portugal

Republic of Korea

Russian Federation

Sri Lanka

Zimbabwe

The Old World in 2014

Now that I have this list, what is the value of these two productions? In other words, is there anything to talk about?

Tea production in tonnes (source FAO)

I decided not to display every year but every 10 years apart from the last years which are much more interesting to see what happened in the last years.

And as you can see, there is something interesting going as over the last 14 years, the New World production has doubled to reach around 1,000,000 tons pro year, which is something that begins to count but is still far from the Old World production that over the same time period also increased by some 2,000,000 tons.

It is not that big yet but there is something going on and as some of you might have already tasted, there is something interesting going on in the tea world.

The situation is not really the same in the wine industry as illustrated in the graphic below.

Wine production in tonnes (source FAO)

I know that looking at wine production in tonnes can seem strange but this is the only unit they have. Perhaps it is easier to calculate?

But let’s go back to our topic. As seen, both the production and the weight of the New World vs the one of the Old one are on a total different level as in the tea industry. Probably because the history of this “fight” goes back way before that or because growing grapes and making wine is easier as making tea (I am just kidding)?

However, if we look back at the overall picture of the wine industry and how the New World wines managed to find a place under the sun when they were first considered as inferior wines, there are some things that could path the way for more developments in the tea industry.

This will be what I will do in my next article.

Where is Mike?

This post has nothing to do with the famous game “where is Charlie?” where you had to find someone called Charlie in a crowd who sometimes were wearing the same clothes as him. And no, it has nothing to do with Mike + the Mechanics, apart from the last part of the name of this famous band from before (before being different for the different people but I must get back on tracks), so let’s begin with my topic of the day: mechanisation.

Mechanisation is switching from a work done by hand or animals to one done by machines. This is a process that began a long time ago, when a man or a woman decided to use hand tools to perform certain tasks.

The idea was probably first to do a better job, to ease things, to be more productive. One of the first examples of a “modern” tool like this one was the mechanical reaper invented by the Celts (and then forgotten before being reinvented in the 19th century) and that might originate in a shortage of labour.

This was the main reason behind the increase in the use of mechanical devices in Western Europe since with first, the industrial revolution that led to less people being available in the fields and then the First World War, a big shortage of labourers appeared at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century. In the USA, the situation was different because of the sheer size of the country and its “low” density when compared to Western Europe.

What are the main advantages in using mechanical devices to harvest, pluck… different products?

First, in most sectors, machines have become cheaper than man (if you include all the costs). Second, the raw productivity difference/the efficiency (how much hectares can be harvested by each of them in one hour) is clearly an advantage for the machines.

What are the disadvantages? For most fragile crops or for those with specific plucking needs, the problem is that mechanical plucking is destructive since hand work can be more specific and cautious. This is or this is not a problem depending on how the tea is later treated (CTC or whole leaf teas with the tip and two leaves or going into teabags for one of the big companies out there).

Since the main advantage of mechanisation is to replace man, it is no wonder that machines are more used in countries with either a less numerous work force (because fewer people are available for this kind of job or because the population numbers are low), a costly one… A few names? Japan, the United States, some places in India…

Just look at the videos below.

Is this something new? Not really.

The method was to turn the tea plantations into outdoor factories, to « industrialise » every stage of the process as far as possible and by this method to reduce costs. […] What made tea plantations special was that they took the process from start to finish; from the clearing of the land, through planting and picking”

The normal solution in such a situation would be to mechanise”

Green Gold by Alan MacFarlane and Iris MacFarlane, Ebury Press 2003

These two quotes describe the situation in Assam in the 1860s when people invested a lot after the boom in the tea industry and faced some problems like the not optimised nature of their estates, the high mortality rate on the plantations, the need to “import” people to work there (with really harsh conditions during the travels).

As I said, mechanisation began a long time ago and will not stop anywhere soon. The only question we need to answer is can engineers design machines that will be able to pluck every kind of tea without breaking it?

This remains to be seen.

How big is big?

Where does tea come from? I don’t mean where exactly but who controls it? Who produces the more?

Believe it or not the answer is not easy to find. Thanks to Internet and the Economic Times, I found out that in 2014, the world’s largest bulk tea company was McLeod Russel India Ltd (a company I had never heard of) and that it was aiming at diversifying its plantation business to mitigate risks and grow in the coming years. I then found out that the second largest company was Tata Beverages Limited.

I began looking all over to see if I could find more info about production, number of estates, locations… and I couldn’t find much. I was able to find some information for McLeod Russel India Ltd but not always consistent with other sources found on the website. One reason could be that merger and acquisitions make things complicated to follow but as you can see below this is probably not the main reason.

Area under production (ha) Production (tons)
2010-2011 34,091.40 74,871.72
2011-2012 34,575.13 79,308.11
2012-2013 34,310.26 78,213.26
2013-2014 34,100.37 87,110.72
2014-2015 33,947.35 80,056.98
2015-2016 33,899.07 85,675.36

Tea estates of McLeod Russel India Ltd (source McLeod Russel Groupe website)

With merger and acquisitions, the area under production would change and increase and except for the last year, for which I found evidence in another place that new estates were added, this is was here obviously not what happened as the areas and even the estates stayed the same over the 6 years period (yes you can find their names if you look for it).

This peculiar company focus has always been in Assam and Dooars, probably for historical reasons. However recently, they acquired estates in other countries (Rwanda, Uganda and Vietnam), bringing their number of estates to 63.

How do this new estates compare to the others? I collected some data, that are not 100% consistent with the ones found earlier but that should be able to give us some insights on this peculiar question.

Assam – North Bank Assam – South Bank Dooars Vietnam Uganda Rwanda Total
Number of estates 23 25 5 7 5 2 67
% of total 34.33% 37.31% 7.46% 10.45% 7.46% 2.99%
Area under production (ha) 16,253 14,587 3,257 1,662 2,973 1,239 39,971
% of total 40.66% 36.49% 8.15% 4.16% 7.44% 3.10%
Average area per estate (ha) 706.65 583.48 651.40 237.43 594.60 619.50 596.58
Production (tons) 38,937 40,436 6,375 8,500 17,365 4,870 116,483
% of total 33.43% 34.71% 5.47% 7.30% 14.91% 4.18%
Average production per estate (tons) 1,692.91 1,617.44 1,275.00 1,214.29 3,473.00 2,435.00 1,738.55
Productivity (tons/ha) 2.40 2.77 1.96 5.11 5.84 3.93 2.91

Tea estates from the McLeod Russel Group (source McLeod Russel Group website)

What can we learn from this table?

That the main activity from the McLeod Russel Group is still made in India, where they have most of their teas estates, the bigger ones and those with the highest production level. However the new “countries” have estates that on average are as big as those from the “old” ones (apart for Vietnam, where they are slightly smaller) and are fare more productive (between 2 and 3 times more). This could be explained by the younger age of the plants, the geographical organisation of each estate and perhaps by more intensive production techniques.

Now that we know a little more about the largest bulk tea company in the world, how does it fare when compared to both the production and the size of the area under production? I will not look at productivity as the list of tea producing countries is so big with countries in different parts of the world that it would be like comparing peaches and apples, they are both fruits but not at all comparable.

Here the obvious source of information is the Food and Agricultural Organisation (FAO), an UN agency that has a database with a lot of data on nearly everything produced. However as always, this kind of data is long to collect, which means that if I can go back to 1961, I can only come back to 2014. But one has to do what he can with what he has.

Regarding this timeframe, I will also have to make one last assumption as McLeod Russel Group publishes data for periods overlapping 2 years (for example 2010-2011) where as the FAO is on a yearly set of data. I will therefore compare 2010-2011 to 2010 and so on.

Area under production in the world (ha) Area under production by McLeod Russel India (ha) Weight of McLeod Russel India Production worldwide (tons) Production by McLeod Russel India (tons) Weight of McLeod Russel India
2010-2011 3,145,177 34,091.40 1.08% 4,603,516 74,871.72 1.63%
2011-2012 3,400,106 34,575.13 1.02% 4,773,895 79,308.11 1.66%
2012-2013 3,504,971 34,310.26 0.98% 5,034,639 78,213.26 1.55%
2013-2014 3,616,415 34,100.37 0.94% 5,349,088 87,110.72 1.63%
2014-2015 3,799,832 33,947.35 0.89% 5,561,339 80,056.98 1.44%

Worldwide weight of McLeod Russel India (source McLeod Russel Group website and FAO database)

The biggest bulk tea company is worth 1% of the total tea production areas in the world and around 1.5% of the tea produced in the world in any said year.

This brings two comments: the first one is that the productivity of each tea hectare owned by McLeod Russel India must be higher than the average productivity in the world (otherwise both weights calculated above would be the same), which says something about this last one as we saw earlier that the productivity on McLeod Russel India was overshadowed by the one from its newest estates. However as we all know it, productivity in tea isn’t the Alpha and the Omega of everything.

The second comment is that in the tea world, a giant producer is still a small player. Why do I say that? In most industries, the top 20% manage to produce or to sell 80% of the total production (this is a rule of thumb based on the Pareto distribution) while here because of the dispersion of production, it seems rather unlikely that such a level of control can be reached from the production side. The only reason that could lead to a high concentration level would be if the market on the “customer” side was dominated by a few big names that could buy most of the production and be in a situation of monopoly. But this would be another thing to study.

When the « all-seeing eye » looks over tea

No I won’t speak about the dollar, the Divine Providence or the Eye of Sauron. Although I think it would be interesting to ponder whether or not the whole history of the Middle Earth or of Arda would have been different if tea had been used from the beginning with Melkor. But writing such an uchronia would be something for another post and with the many pages written by J.R.R. Tolkien, it would be a shame to summarize all of them to a nice afternoon tea in the newly created Arda.

If I get back to my original topic and stay on tracks, I would like to remind all of us that we, human beings always try to solve problems through the use of our intelligence or of the tools we created. Just look at different myths starting with Prometheus or with Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein among others (yes it seems I am in a big literature cycle right now with all kinds of references coming to my mind when I think on a topic).

The problem I am referring to is one that has always been important to any tea drinker, the increase in quality of the tea leaves. Peasants have been working on such problems for centuries and probably since the beginning of human history, selecting the best species to improve the overall quality, productivity of harvests/beasts…

Looking at different things on this trend, I just found out that like in other fields, the newest or latest technology (satellite) is being used to survey tea with a focus on improving its quality.

The idea behind this use is that the chemicals that are contained in the leaves are giving its colour, its taste… Thanks to the satellite views and data analysis, scientists are able to survey the different aspects of tea and predict the quality and quantity of the next harvest. They are also working on ways to improve the next production batches thank to all the data collected.

Normalized Difference Vegetation Index (NDVI) map showing the sections of two particular tea clones on the Tocklai Tea Estate, in Assam, Northeast India. Source: NASA

I knew that they were doing things like that for corns or for big productions like that, combining GPS, satellite views, work in labs to optimise the production, be it in quantity or quality. And even so, a little more rain or sun at the wrong period of time and the results are not that outstanding.

I must confess that I am not a peasant and that I don’t really know how things work but can everything be kept under control or monitored? After all, tea is a product of the land, the sky and of man. There are incidents, changes, things that were not foreseen and that are not always replicable but that can produce unique products.

A further question is do we really want all the teas to taste the same? This is done for some blends that are a mix of different teas and that have to taste the same, whatever the quality/taste/quantities of the different teas that are mixed into it can be in any given year but this is part of the charm of drinking tea, what we drink can change slightly or more between each year.

Call me old fashioned but I like the surprise and the uncertainty of letting Mother Nature do her own work. Of course, we can try to improve things, try to control things but should we really do it all the way along and for everything?

After all, according to some stories, the first tea was made when a dead leaf from a wild tea bush felt into the boiled water from Emperor Shennong. If this is not an unforeseen consequences of a little bit of chaos/luck, I don’t know what it is.

Traceability or Traceabilitea, that is the question

Today, I won’t speak to you the reader but to the companies who sell us tea and I will speak about traceability or the capacity to know where one thing comes from, where it went, how it was changed, how it was transported…
And for doing so, is there any better choice than Hamlet by Shakespeare to guide us on this path? Perhaps at the end, will you all tell me that this is Much Ado about Nothing.

It isn’t that I don’t trust you but there are many middlemen in the business and in the supply chain between the place of production and my cup of tea that one could easily be lost out there and some scandals in the last years in different industries (not only in the food ones) have shown us that big or small companies are not protected against bad behaviours.
I know that some people think that a product has to be good “per se” and that rather than having to write on bio/fair trade/sustainable… products that they are this way, only the bad/non bio/… (put here whatever you dislike) ones should have an indication written down that they are “bad” but I think it is not enough and there should be some traceability added to know more about what we drink.
As I said, I do trust you (to be honest, I do it most of the time but not always) but knowing where my cup of tea comes from is rather important to me for several reasons.

First, I want to be sure that I drink what is supposed to be in the pack. When you know that in spite of becoming a Geographical Indication, there is still year after year, more Darjeeling drank in the world as this area produces…
Second, behind each tea there is a man, a land, a “terroir”, something that makes it unique, that gives it its taste, the little something that set it apart from a generic tea from the same area or from any other area. Knowing where the tea you are drinking comes from and who made it seems logical. After all, tea is produced by land, air and people and we all know that like wine, “terroir” (in the more restricted geographical definition of this word) has a great importance for tea.
Third, behind each tea or each blend (even if it is I think more complex for this category and something else could be created for it (with a further differentiation between a blend of teas and a blend of teas with other things in)), there is a story and I am not talking here about the marketing one but rather about the real one. You know this story that really tells us where the idea from this tea comes from and why it was “created” or did someone decided to go in a certain direction and not in another and let’s be honest, it is far easier to do with some indications rather from ground zero.

I already hear the different companies complaining that it is too costly to look up for this information or to print it down.
I will start with the second one, since nowadays, this is no longer an excuse. Most of us have Internet, smartphones allowing us to scan codes and automatically get the info we need/want/think we need… Why not do that? And there are simple ways to do that at a rather low cost (be it in the store, on Internet, on the packages…).
There again, the first complain will be used as an excuse. However, and here I will talk to the “big” companies (big being perhaps a big word in the tea industry) but they should know where the product was bought, where it comes from and how it come to the store. If not, there is a problem.
If “big” companies do it, the information will be available for the smaller ones, for the sellers… and therefore for us, the drinkers.

Nowadays, there is a big word going around in the head of several politicians at different levels: Open Data. Everything has to be “Open Data” but what does it really mean? That those with information open this information and share it with other people, with foreigners, allowing for new products, new ideas to appear.
This is what should happen as today, customers are looking for information, are trying to become more literate, more knowledgeable and this is a way for them to reach this goal and for the companies to guide them on this path, a path that will lead some of the customers to look out for higher quality products with higher prices, giving in the end the tea companies that follow this path a reward for their dedication and creating for them and the customers a win-win situation.

And guess what? William Shakespeare had foreseen this quest for more knowledge:
“And seeing ignorance is the curse of God,
Knowledge the wing wherewith we fly to heaven.”

That’s how it goes; Everybody knows

I travelled a little bit these last days and I heard on radio two things that made me think about tea. The first one was an interview of a famous cook (whose name I never had heard and I don’t remember) that spoke about bakers and the return to higher quality products with a critic of the race to low-cost that has been raging through this industry in the past years. The second one was an interview (yes another) of an ice cream maker that sold high quality ice creams at a high price, saying (I am quoting from memory) that “it was not a regular ice cream” and commenting about the uniqueness and quality of the ingredients used to make them.
Even if they didn’t pronounce it, the word premium came to my mind as they seemed to imply that their products were above the others and in an area where price didn’t really matter. I don’t remember how much an ice cream was but it was for heavier scoops as usual which combined to its high quality made it something exceptional, at least according to the ice cream maker.

You will now ask me what is this premium thing you are talking about and why should I care about it when I am drinking my tea? Premium according to Merriam-Webster is a high value or a value in excess of that normally or usually expected source.
For tea, it would mean having more than you bargained for, more than you expected from what you drank. Does the tea market go that way?
I wrote something a while ago on generic strategies for speciality tea or industry wide companies but after hearing these people and thinking about it, I think that this premium strategy could work for most companies.
What is a premium strategy? It is a variant of the diversification strategy where a company tries to increase the perceived quality of its products leading to an increase in the perceived value and a willingness by the customer to pay more, allowing the company to increase its margins.
By doing this, a company manages to create a specific image, one that set it apart from the competition, one that allows it to go on another level creating a need and a market because its products are no longer perceived as one among others but because they became the standard that helps to measure the competition.
This strategy is the one adopted by several luxury cars companies, nearly all luxury good companies and some coffee companies (you know which one, I won’t dare to tell their names to you).
The first drawback is obvious; if people think that what they experienced is not worth the extra cost paid, they will turn to competitors (quite often cheaper ones). The second drawback is more complex as it will depend on the economy and the willingness of the customers to buy these products because they make them someone special and unique. Whereas this is easy for a car or a watch, it is more difficult to be perceived this way with tea (but the same goes for a lot of commodities, non-alcoholic drinks and so on).

You don’t believe this is a common strategy on the tea market? Just look at your favourite brand and the products it has decided to sell over the past years. I am sure you will find a little exclusive approach to them. This can take the form of having really rare or exotic teas or of specific blends that no one else does (even if some companies specialised in recreating any blend given to them) or a mix of both.

However what they all need to do if they want to keep on focusing on this premium approach is to enlarge their customer base, to be identified as being something special and unique, to rise through a new market level and stop fighting in a niche. Even if tea is said to be the second liquid drunk on Earth after water (even if it sounds a little strange), it needs to cross boundaries and become either something that everything will drink or develop a specific and positive image in the collective minds of almost every.
Without this awareness, the premium strategies will probably not be successful on the long run as the market will remain small in numbers and highly competitive with a lot of companies making and selling teas.
This is probably the biggest challenge faced by everyone in the tea industry.

There can never be surprises in logic

Following my latest post, I dug a little more into the plantation concept and I received some more information from a couple of people, so here is the follow-up.

According to the Tea Board of India, there are 833 small tea farmers in Darjeeling. I couldn’t get all the information I needed on them to compare them to the data I had but I got something.

For example, 60 of these farmers are gathered in a cooperative with approximatively 23 hectares of tea that aims to produce through its factory 15,000 kilograms of tea per year, which means an average production for the cooperative of 250 kg per tea farmer or 652 kg per ha. I wrote for the cooperative as they might sell it too to others (I have no info on that), which would mean that they could produce more.

When compared to the data available on the Nepalese small farmers (658.27 kg per site, i.e. per tea farmer and 847.43 per ha), the numbers I found for Darjeeling are much lower, meaning either a lower productivity per hectare (and coming back to the “problems” of older trees) or a willingness to produce less for higher quality or because of a more sustainable approach. However, this data is only on a small sample and might not be representative of the overall picture.

So after getting back on track, let’s get back to where we stopped last time and that was speaking about the financial backing needed to go into this business. From there on, I will dig a little more into this financial aspect, go through history/economical politics before trying to see what is specific in the “traditional” model of big estates before checking why would this model fail (if it fails that is).

Tea estates like most of the plantation crops can trace their roots to the 19th century (even if some were there earlier because of being cultivated during and fuelling the European colonial expansion). And like all of them, tea production was hit by a drop in demand and therefore in price (since they hadn’t foreseen it, there was an overproduction) during the crisis following Black Tuesday (the Wall Street Crash of 1929).

“There have been attempts to restrict tea production in the past. In the world recession of the 1930s, tea prices fell dramatically. This prompted the major producers – India, Ceylon and the Netherlands East Indies – to enter into International Tea Agreements, which restricted production to 85 per cent of normal.i

The obvious results of both the crisis and the reduction in production was that only those with cash could go through these years, leading to a further concentration as those without cash were absorbed and the small holders went to other crops that allowed them to eat or to gain more cash, just like in the Netherlands East Indies (http://teaconomics.teatra.de/2014/08/22/rise-and-fall-and/) or simply did not have the cash to withstand the decline in pricesii

Following the independence of India and as in most countries going through the same process, there was a wave of nationalisation of key sectors but the effects on tea were not those that could have been expected.

“Following on independence, the Indian government began to plan extensive nationalization of key industries. Tea featured in some of the recommendations, and many British companies took fright and began to run their estates down. They spent as little as they could on maintenance and renewal […] They also sold some estates to Indians. […] This catalogue of attacks on the British tea interest might have been expected to drive it out of India. However, it proved remarkably resilient. The companies that were sold were, in general, those with the poorer land or less successful management. The yield on the remaining British estates remained consistently higher than on the Indian-owned estates so that, although acreage fell, production was proportionally less affected.iii

This extract explains why nationalization didn’t mean the end of foreign controlled estates (which were still among the big players) or a rise in the support for small holders since the only known development models were focusing on productivity and heavy industry.

Furthermore, as in most independent countries, India focused on national development with protectionism and a premium to national industries (I don’t forget the Green Revolution but since I didn’t find any evidence that it had an impact on the tea industry I can’t be 100% sure about it).

“In the new tariff regime, investment costs sharply increased in businesses that relied on imported equipment, including tea.iv

As you can guess, all this combined meant that more cash was needed to invest in tea, to produce and “manufacture” tea, which meant that small farmers couldn’t efficiently compete.

In the previous lines, I spoke a lot about India and the independence process but not at all about Nepal. You might ask why. Simply because before 1951, Nepal was closed to foreigners and avoided as much as possible any contact with them (this was seen as a way to keep its independence).

After 1951, Nepal undertook a series of Five-Year Plans to develop first its infrastructures and communication and then agriculture (with cash crops being given priority in the Fifth Plan running from 1975 to 1980).

The situation and priority changed later on in both countries in the recent years and small tea farmers now have the support of both governments as can be seen in the most recent position and strategy papers in both countries.

“To attain the above position of tea industry in Nepal in 2020, the following strategies need to be adopted:

[…]

  1. Provide support to small tea farmers for preparation of loan scheme and application and assist in the availing of credit from ADB/N and Commercial Banks.v

Why this change? The reason is simple. It is thanks to the new trends in consumption (smaller production, more authentic/sustainable/fair products). Small farmers are seen as those able to satisfy this demand; perhaps thanks to a higher motivation? Or to a certain ease to change their production processes?

Does this mean that in the modern consumption world, the small farmers model is more efficient? Once you have left the financing/investment aspect, what is left of the “sheer logistics of the old model” as said by Lazylitteratus in his original post? Does it make the old model inefficient?

We have seen that size, production and productivity set both models apart but the fundamental difference could lie in what makes the tea production system.

What I mean by system is everything needed to produce tea and to sell it. Since a picture is worth a thousand words, here is an oversimplified drawing of what I see as the tea production system.

Tea_Estate_system

The tea production system

To again simplify things, there are three main suppliers of these services, the private sector, the public one and a mix of both.

Factories are needed to produce tea and they are linked to an estate or a company like in the “old” model (but smaller farmers can be allowed to have access to it) or linked to a State initiative or to a cooperative (backed or not by an estate).

Schools and infrastructures are something that the State has to provide. They can both benefit from private “help” or sponsorship but the final provider remains the State, which means that everyone, all around the country has to pay for it.

“There are three schools […] they belong to the Indian government. The estate has nothing to pay to keep them operating (apart from a few repairs now and then). Furthermore, the registration is not really free as the family must pay 250 rupees per year. Like the health system, these measures are mandatory by Indian law.vi

Health and housing should be provided by the estate but the situation depends on the estate and evidences are not so clear as to who pays what and why (hence why I won’t say anything further on this topic). In theory, the Indian law make a free health system mandatory for the workers of the organised sectorvii. This means that for health and housing the estate should pay something (but according to different sources, on some estates, they don’t pay much).

So we saw that most of the things that makes the tea system are either provided by the State or are not really making a huge difference. The only factor left and the reason why the “logistics of the old model” might be failing (unless someone points me to what is lacking) comes from the only thing that we have not studied yet: people.

On an estate, there are two different kinds of people: those working on a temporary basis and the permanent ones, those last one being paid all year long.

Permanent workers

Temporary workers

Total

Number

% of total

Number

% of total

Darjeeling

2,734

62.63

1,631

37.37

4,365

Terai

1,056

31.99

2,245

68.01

3,301

Dooars

11,672

68.01

5,489

31.99

17,161

Total

15,462

62.28

9,365

37.72

24,827

Number of workers in the factories in West Bengal in 2004viii

Permanent workers

Temporary workers

Total

Number

% of total

Number

% of total

Darjeeling

45,919

93.72

3,079

6.28

48,998

Terai

23,866

65.21

12,730

34.79

36,596

Dooars

135,085

88.73

17,166

11.27

152,251

Total

204,870

86.14

32,975

13.86

237,845

Number of workers in the fields in West Bengal in 2004ix

Permanent workers

Temporary workers

Total

Number

% of total

Number

% of total

Darjeeling

48,653

91.17

4,710

8.83

53,363

Terai

24,922

62.47

14,975

37.53

39,897

Dooars

146,757

86.63

22,655

13.37

169,412

Total

220,332

83.88

42,340

16.12

262,272

Number of workers in the tea estates in West Bengal in 2004

As can be seen from the data I found (I know these are official figures and that reality can be different but I had to use some figures), the permanent workers are the most numerous ones, which means that most of the workers are paid the whole year.

To compare those percentages to something, I can tell you that in 1985, the family farms in Gujarat employed 70% of temporary workersx.

This highlights the real difference between both models. It is not as much the investments or the production capacity but rather the way the people are employed and paid that makes the difference.

“In fact, reliance on family labour is usually the main factor explaining why small family farms are more efficient than large ones relying on hired labour which necessitates costly supervision (Muyanga and Jayne 2014,4).xi

I guess this conclusion is not really what we expected.

iTea, Addiction, Exploitation and Empire by Roy Moxham, Carroll & Graf Publishers, 2004, p.216

iiThe rubber industry: a study in competition and monopoly by P.T. Bauer, Harvard University Press: Cambridge, 1948

iiiTea, Addiction, Exploitation and Empire by Roy Moxham, Carroll & Graf Publishers, 2004, p.207-208

ivTrading Firms in Colonial India by Tirthanka Roy, Business History Review, Harvard University Press: Cambridge, Spring 2014, p.41

vConcept Paper on Study of Nepalese Tea Industry – Vision 2020 submitted by Ajit N.S. Thapa, March 2005

viLes réalités du commerce équitable – l’exemple d’une plantation de Darjeeling by Arnaud Kaba, L’Harmattan, 2011, p.131 (the translation is mine)

viiLes réalités du commerce équitable – l’exemple d’une plantation de Darjeeling by Arnaud Kaba, L’Harmattan, 2011, p.129

viiiLes réalités du commerce équitable – l’exemple d’une plantation de Darjeeling by Arnaud Kaba, L’Harmattan, 2011, p.121

ixLes réalités du commerce équitable – l’exemple d’une plantation de Darjeeling by Arnaud Kaba, L’Harmattan, 2011, p.121

xPatronage and Exploitation by Breman, Berkeley, University of California Press, 1985

xiLarger Plantations versus Smallholding in Southeast Asia: Historical and Contemporary Trends by Jean-François Bissonnette and Rodolphe De Koninck, Conference Paper n°12, Land grabbing, conflict and agrarian-environmental transformations: perspectives from East and Southeast Asia, April 1985