Category: Guest Post

Tea time in America

I was asked by people at Seattle Coffee Gear if I was interested in a post by them and among the subjects they were thinking of was “Tea in America”.

Since this topic is of interest to me, I gave a go ahead and I began searching myself to provide later a complementary look at it.

In other words, stay tuned but first let’s leave the floor to my guest.

 

“But the kettle’s on the boil

And we’re so easily called away

Hands across the water

Heads across the sky”

– Paul McCartney

 

Greetings from America, where it looks like we may (finally) adopt tea into our daily routine. Tea has come and gone from our culture several times based on availability, fashion and, of course, politics. It is time to dust of granny’s teapot, from all indicators, tea is here to stay.

 

With the recent purchase of the Teavana chain of stores, Starbucks is betting they can do for tea popularity what they did for coffee popularity. Teavana has over 300 stores in the United States, Canada and Mexico located in popular shopping mall locations. Starbucks has plans to expand and triple that amount. Currently Teavana sells teas and tea ware and some locations are being revamped to sell prepared food and beverages.

 

According to NPR, the wholesale value of tea has grown from $2 billion to $10 billion over the past 20 years. Currently there are about 4,000 specialty tea rooms and retail stores in the U.S. There are many demographic factors that indicate a continued economic boost for tea sales including aging baby boomers and an increased Asian population. The time is ripe for tea.

 

The preference here has always been for black tea, preferably iced, which makes up 85% of the U.S. market. This is why McDonalds offers Sweet Tea (water, sugar, orange pekoe and pekoe cut black tea) nationwide, not just in the Southern states where the iced drink has always been popular.

Caution: What falls on the floor after roasting could end up in your 32 ounce iced tea

While this tea revolution is being led by corporate giants McDonalds, Starbucks, Pepsi (Brisk) and Coca-Cola (Honest Tea), small specialty tea shops are quietly doing more business. With increased awareness of tea comes increased demand for premium teas, because a rising tide lifts all boats (and teacups).

 

Some die-hard tea enthusiasts have a hard time welcoming the onslaught of new tea drinkers. Tea blogger A.C. Cargill laments there is ‘Too much emphasis on fancy tea rooms and fancy flavorings, not the real tea experience.’ A similar phenomenon happened with coffee, Starbucks was established in 1971 but the Third Wave of coffee did not take shape until 30 years later. Right now is a great opportunity for tea educators to expedite the evolution.

 

Shiuwen Tai, a tea shop owner and tea educator in Seattle, offers classes about how tea is grown, harvested and processed. She specializes in Taiwanese Oolong teas and leads annual trips to meet the producers. Her enthusiasm for quality tea is contagious and she shares her knowledge during tea tastings, general interest classes and lectures on advanced topics. She says people who appreciate fine coffee or fine wine will have an easier understanding when she talks about what makes a fine tea.

 

The East Coast is also seeing more shops devoted to fine tea. Tea server and blogger Nicole Martin reports, ‘Most in my area are brand new. Radiance Tea House in New York City is probably coming up on 8 or so years though. My favorite is definitely Tea Drunk’ (in the East Village). Both of these shops offer classes and tastings to further educate customers about fine teas.

 

Fresh roasted tea from Floating Leaves Tea in the Ballard neighborhood of Seattle, Washington

A little more tea education and it is possible some Americans may trade corporate tea’s quantity for local business’ quality, and a 1 liter cup of Sweet Tea for a 100ml gaiwan. Either way, tea is here to stay!

 

Samantha Joyce is a writer for Seattle Coffee Gear in Seattle, Washington and enjoys sharing her knowledge of all things coffee and tea. Currently she enjoys steeping Oriental Beauty Oolong in a gaiwan to impress her coffee-loving friends and family.

The other side of the coin, or double speak of the tea pseudo-worldy ?

This is not something I wrote but the translation in English (thanks to @jackie and @lahikmajoe for proof reading it) of a post made by Guillaume Leleu, the owner and founder of the French tea company Theodor (www.theodor.fr), on Monblogdethé (www.monblogdethe.fr).

The original post was in French and in it, Guillaume Leleu speaks about flavoured teas.

But I will let the stage to the maestro himself.

This is about tea. Tea? Yes, so much talk about what one claims to know. Success? Reputation? Respect? Dare I believe that all of this is only pure jealousy?

Why do I find it hard to believe that this is a subject where people speak frankly, objectively and without ulterior motives, or nasty intentions? Because if I were wrong, at least, we would open up a debate. Public or not, it would allow the exchange of ideas.

But this cannot happen, as long as the narrow-mindedness of some, the meanness of their comments, their lack of arguments are not publicly exposed.

To have the courage to voice their opinions, and to speak out against those of others, are acts of chivalry, something of another time, nothing more than a dream today.

So be it, but let’s use the same weapons of treachery and hypocrisy that our friends use. Let’s say things out loud without naming anyone, the evil of what is left unsaid.

I have rarely seen as many articles, posts, memos as I do today, lamenting all the wrongs of flavoured tea, how it infringes on on the “holy drink”, the only tea worth our attention; unflavoured and single origin tea. A term used by pseudo experts, not marketing driven at all, of course, not what were you thinking?

So, flavoured teas are just a way of “marketing teas of unbearable taste… that stink… without body .. of mediocre quality… with “cheap” flavours”… only worth “cooking with”… “… to make things easy and profitable for tea merchants.”… “pulling the wool over your eyes” … and one should never “stoop so low as to consume such improper drinks.” As to those “poor fools” who consume, purchase and enjoy them I shall not repeat the comments made – one more glorious than the other – about these likely uneducated, uncultured, and ill-mannered people.

These opinions would not be problematic if they were well, just simply opinions, points of views open to contradictory response, leaving room for doubt, or recognizing difference. Rather they are verdicts in a rigged trial where guilt is proclaimed before the proceedings even begin.

Instead the remarks reek of intolerance beyond what education and good breeding allow. They are abusive, petty, mean, proof of a total lack of courage, and audacity. It is my duty not to remain silent, and I must restore a little bit of respect to this much maligned flavoured tea.

Of course this problem isn’t new. Wanting to create a scale of values in this righteous world, to establish a noble lineage – more noble than others, to boast about privilege has always been the joy of the pseudo intellectual bourgeoisie. Better value yourself, rather than wait for others to do so, especially if you know how little you are worth. It is easier to pretend to be, than simply be.

So is flavoured tea a “second league” tea?

You will have understood that according to some: YES, or even a third or fourth league one.
In my humble opinion as small creator of such blends, but also as a mere consumer: NO and far from it.

Flavoured tea is one of the many facets of tea and always has been. It is one aspect, alongside the gardens, varieties, and methods that make up tea to the most noble degree. It is an integral part of the drink and merits the same recognition as a Dan Cong, a Darjeeling or an Oolong from Taiwan.

Lu Yu would turn in his grave if he knew of this stance that perpetually questions the value of flavoured tea. Because it goes against the whole philosophy behind tea. Tea is the drink of hospitality, of welcome, it is the drink of the poor and also the rich. It is the drink with more than a thousand and one faces.

Tea is the ambassador of tolerance, of respect, of cultural encounters and exchange.

There isn’t, and there never was a degree of nobility in a cup of tea. It is a drink, and the harmful Western way of assigning degrees of value to man should not be applied to tea.

Personally, I drink more pure tea than flavoured teas because I enjoy the widely variable characteristics of the former. Does this give me the right to judge or shun my neighbour? Does this give me authority to pretentiously dismiss those who do not share my tastes?

After all, this is nothing but a matter of taste, not of finesse, elegance, nor even the spirit of taste but one of egotistical self appreciation, of loving what one loves.

Flavoured tea, not only the teas I create are nothing but nature meeting nature, one plant “Camelia” mixed with other plants, be they fruits, flowers, spices. How is this less noble than a single origin tea? I don’t know.

Do these critics ever cook? Do they only eat their tomatoes plain, without vinegar, salt, pepper? Don’t they cook their meat or their fish? Do they eat everything raw?

Is creating a flavoured tea a diabolical act where you alter what is most noble? Does this make me guilty of sorcery? Am I committing the unforgivable in wanting to create a cookie flavored tea – to the point where comments, one more flattering than the next such as “”marketing tea… that stinks… without body…” are applied?

IF this is the case, I am lucky that I was not the first. Poor Chinese, Arabs, Indians and other devils who showed me the way! Oh no, I forgot, a Chinese flavoured tea is as noble as a tea flavoured in France yes, yes I assure you. Probably the lineage

When Hennessy requests my expertise to match its “fine de Cognac” with tea, to create a new drink, is that wrong?

But my God, Chanel dyes the cotton and the linen it uses to make its most beautiful dresses! Hermès mixes leather and zamak, that it uses as clasps for its handbags. I ask myself what is the world is coming to?

I had hoped that 2012 would allow us to focus on the most important values in life: sharing, respect, self-sacrifice. It is a waste and I am truly saddened when I see myself having to write this letter to respond to poor comments.

What reassures me, however, is that in our modern world, most tea consumers don’t listen to such rhetoric. They don’t impose their tastes on others by presenting them as the only way, thus claiming the monopoly on wisdom. . How many tea lovers have I known who discovered the flavour of Puer thanks to flavoured teas? And let’s dare ask, would we find pure tea today if flavoured tea wasn’t sold? I can assure you the answer is NO.

My morning tea is a Souchon, my daily tea is quite often an Oolong, or a wonderful Japanese green tea. I must confess that I like the multiple and complex notes of a plain tea… but those aside, I am always eager to taste the elegance, the surprise and the pleasure of the floral, spicy or greedy notes of a cup of flavoured tea. There is one thing that is true: I do not prepare it following the Gong Fu Cha and I suggest those who prepare a flavoured tea in such a manner, should refer back to their pseudo expert – as for their information – this ceremony is reserved for Wulongs.

To conclude, these are the same people who, with their double speak of flattery and hypocrisy, call the company I have the honour to have founded “the best company” for flavoured tea, “renowned for its blends.” This permits them to infer politely that at Theodor you’ll only find third rate teas.”

So, Ladies and Gentlemen, you the self-righteous of the tea world, worldly in another world, it is with pride and unconcealed joy I inform you that I serve my creations and blends to thousands of tea lovers every day.

Understand that our blends are highly respected and accompany the meals in the best restaurants of the world, as well as those in simple establishments. It is with dignity that I strive to maintain the glorious title you have bestowed upon us. And if you permit me to give you one last piece of advice – because unlike you the company I represent does not practice discrimination: You will also find some of the finest selections of teas that the world and nature offer us, through the gardens, the plantations and the people. It is up to you to find merit in this aspect of tea. However, in order to do so you will need to become a little more open-minded.

Long live the mixed, the melting pot, and diversity. Here’s to a long and peaceful life to pure tea, flavoured tea, smoked tea, and all the other wonderful plants, flowers, and fruit infusions that bring sensory pleasure and smiles into our cups and glasses every day.

Guillaume Leleu

An interview with Kusmi

[I rewrote this interview on a French radio of Sylvain Orebi, owner of Kusmi Tea and Løv organic as if it was made for a newspaper.

Here are the original transcriptions: Kusmi Tea – BFM Radio – French and Kusmi Tea – BFM Radio – English – ed.]

_____________________

» Could you present yourself in a few words for our readers that might not know you?

I am Sylvain Orebi, president of Orientis, owner of Kusmi Tea and Løv Organic.

» Sylvain Orebi, how did you decide to get into the tea business?

I followed the family tradition of coffee and cocoa trading before founding in 1985 with my father and my brother a new company specialising in coffee and cocoa trading.

Our business flourished until the early 2000s when challenged by the large global trading companies and by the food manufacturers, we decided to go downstream and we bought a coffee importer in Le Havre., Olivier Langlois.

It had a small department importing bulk teas since the 30s and it was right after this purchase that I began to look at tea from a business point of view and after finding out that there were good margins in it, I decided to go there.

» How did you do that?

For 2 years, I recreated the tea activity with a B2B approach but then I found out that there was a business opportunity in the niche market of B2C premium tea but in order to deal with my competitors, people like Mariage Frères, I needed a name.

This is when I was lucky since a friend of mine bought all the premium teas available in the Bon Marché [one of the most famous department stores in Paris, Francehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Le_Bon_March%C3%A9 – ed.] and among them were several Kusmi teas and I felt in love with the packaging before falling in love with the product and decided that I wanted to buy it and luckily enough, they were on the market but I didn’t know it at that time.

Kusmi Tea Can

» Could you tell us more about this brand?

Yes. Kusmi was founded in 1867 in St. Petersburg by the Kousmichoff family but exiled itself in Paris, Avenue Niel in 1917.

PavelThe original blends that are still used today have been created in the 1870s-1900s by Pavel Kousmichoff, a real creator , and his recipes were further elaborated by his son.

However, the brand belonged to a couple who had it for over 30 years after having bought it to the Kousmichoff family and that were not doing much to develop it or to make something out of it.

» The brand seems to have been barely alive when you bought it. How did you change this?

It was a lot of work. I had to completely rebuild it from the ground; we started from scratch, to be honest, we broke everything, we worked on the quality of the teas, on the packaging, on the distribution concept in France and abroad, quite a lot on communication too.

Luckily enough the company still had the blending expertise and know-how in its workshops but I modernised everything, including the packaging, which was at that time done by hand.

As far as the communication is concerned, it was my first management decision and I hired a part-time press secretary specialised in beauty who thought that Kusmi was a wellness, a beauty product and it allowed me to be in the “nice” media, such as Elle, Vogue… These magazines were obvious media for our brand as 80% of our customers are women that are attracted by our baroque packaging and that keep on buying our products because they are really good.

» How do you sell your products?

It took us two years to completely rework the products and the strategy and then in 2005, we were ready to sell again.

The distribution was and is still made only in selected places and corners in the whole world, in towns like Paris, Kyoto, Tokyo… We also have five stores in Paris, one in New York, another in Montreal. Right now, I am looking to open stores in Milan, London, Hamburg and Munich.

» You also created a new brand called Løv Organic. Could you tell us a bit more about it?

I created new blends for Kusmi and one day, I decided to listen to the people who keep on asking me for organic teas, not so much in France but rather in Scandinavia, Germany and the United States.

We went for a new brand because a brand is organic or not but it can’t be both.

For the same reason, even if both brands are distributed via mostly the same channels, there is now a Løv Organic shop in Paris.

» How do you see the future of the tea market? When a company like Nestlé launches a new product, it means something, no?

There is something going on but I am not sure it is a hype because tea is a product that has been drunk for a long time in China, India or the UK. Even if in France, people didn’t drink and might do so now, I wouldn’t call this a hype.

People have a taste that is changing, they want to be good and tea is a wellness, a health product.

The market has also changed thanks to companies like Mariage Frères that opened the market, allowing people to find premium teas at a price that was not necessarily low.

» And the future of your company?

In 2011, Kusmi Tea should have a turnover of 20 million Euros and I think that in 2015, the whole business should reach the 100 million Euros mark.